kool where did you get the motor and let us know how it works. i have a oem one on the driver side that works great (fast and quite) and a aftermarket one on the passenger side that is not that old and is getting weak already (loud and slow).

 

im with you on that one. my drivers side i have do exactly like the original poster said and sometimes it trips the breaker and i have to wait to roll it up the rest of the way. my passenger side i dont dare mess with it creeps up and down do to the issue described. but im betting i can figure out how to do what they are doing with there kit for free if i find the web based install instructions

 

yep... motor... seems like all the right sides go out first for some reason.. you can get an aftermarket cheaper than goin to a dealer.. I got one for about $60 from a parts store.

 

60 bucks is a good price for a oem motor, i picked up a gm motor and regulator for 120 bucks. the cheaper window motors are cheaper in more than one way. i have a oem one on the driver side that i installed and a cheap one that was installed just before i got the car, its going out, make a clicking kind of noise from the get go and is going slower all the time. the oem one is still quite and fast.

 

I have the same problem, except the window goes up 2 inches at a time and I have to wait for it 10 minutes to to get raise it another 2 inches. instead of replacing the window motor, do you guys think it might be a window switch problem??

 

thats the motor overheating and stoping. its just as much time and effort to rewire as to get a good motor and your motor is only going to last so long, its failing so it takes more amps to make it go, this causes the motor to overheat. the rewire allows more amps so more heat, to much heat in a electric motor and it will fail, i would think sooner than latter.

 

The right side window motor is more prone to failure because of the how it gets the voltage. DC motors work best when they get their full rated voltage. When the voltage is low, they have to work harder to do their intended job and that causes them to develop more heat. Heat will slowly kill your DC motor.

In our cars (like several other cars BTW) all power for the passenger window originates in the driver's door and has to pass through the switch in the driver's door, out the door, across the dash, and into the passenger door. What started out as 12-13 volts in the driver door, has sometimes dropped to as little as 9-11 volts by the time it gets to the motor in the passenger door.

As Camaro69 pointed out, Autotrix has a kit that comes with everything you need to fix the stock wiring. I bought the kit last summer and it took a couple of hours to install. Before the kit my passenger window would really labor to get up (down worked well) and I measured 10 volts at the motor. After the kit was installed, my window goes up and down just like the driver window and I have almost 13 volts at the motor. I did not replace the window motor, just installed the Autotrix kit.

I do not work for Autotrix and am not associated with them in any way. I just happened to purchase their kit and have been very happy with the results.

 

Really? I didn't realize how good my discount was then... I paid under $35 from a Chevy dealer...wish I still had that discount.

 

so if you test low voltage at your passenger side switch then the wiring mod will have a much higher chance of working.