painting vehicle surfaces
#12
Primer! What? That's too thick. Think thin.......... Just keep the good paint you have already. Maybe a light coat of primer on the bondo. The paint will stick to anything as long as it's sanded and clean. Just "think" sand/clean/paint, sand/clean/paint, and sand before you clear to "dull" it. Then the clear "pops" it!!!!!
#13
The "wet" sanding is done last after you've lightly sanded the clear. It's done with a compound and sponge pad on a electric buffer.......Actually your sanding it with the alcohol soaked cloth patch but your still keeping it dull...Go for it!
Last edited by CraZ28; 03-28-2010 at 10:25 PM.
#14
ok thiiiin ill take that to the max then like you said. if it goes wrong i can just try again. actually you can see what the awfulness looks like in an album titled damages in my profile. it just shows the front bumper its much worse up close. you inspire confidence in me!! might be a bad thing but eh...
#15
ill use some of this method but much thinner as you say. http://www.smokedtaillightstint.com/ this is for tinting tail lights but same concept.
#18
ill definitely keep you guys posted i appreciate the tips. but i have to paint most of the car parts still attached. it was hit by a Tahoe a while ago and the insurance was gonna total it but i refused and took my losses. i molded the frame and body to fit again but i had to pin the fender and front bumper on were there previous drill holes were so its stuck... rest can come of though. if its that easy to paint maybe ill see how the bumpers and fender goes. then ill man up and do the whole car. thanks again.
#20
Let me offer a little help before you end up having to paint it twice. The instructions in that link are a bit amateurish. First of all, they're referring to a fiberglass bumper, you have urethane which is different. Try to avoid using bondo on the bumper. If it ever flexes (the bondo won't), off comes the bondo taking paint with it. Also, you don't sand the finished paint starting with 220 grit, holy crap! Use 1200 grit first, then finish with 1500 if you feel 1200 isn't good enough. If you have some high spots (runs) you can take it down with 600, then follow up with 1200. On one of my previous Vette restos, I spent about 40 hours just wet-sanding and power buffing the new paint. I used 1200 and the job turned out like glass. It takes experience to do it right without burning through. But, you gotta learn somehow, and it sounds like you want to learn. Another thing, do not sand the color before applying the clear, unless you absolutely have to like for removing a run. Base paint doesn't have a hard surface like the clear does, so it's easy to cut right through it...oops! Plus, if your color coat is a metallic, sanding it will bring the metallic out too strong, making it look blotchy and off-color. And do not use any chemicals on the color before the clear, that's asking for troubles with the clear. Just use tack cloths to remove any lint, etc. If the cracks you're referring to on your bumper covers are just the paint, you really want to strip the paint off. Paint is popping off because the bumper was flexed excessively. It's very likely that more of the paint that is still on there is not completely adhered anymore. That'll be something else to come back and haunt you if you leave it alone. If the cover itself is cracked, you may be able to get it mended (welded by melting together). Otherwise the only "right" way would be to replace the bumper cover. Ask anybody who works with paint, and they'll tell you that 90% of a good paint job is in the prep work.
Last edited by Camaro 69; 03-29-2010 at 12:11 AM.