Opti ?'s
 

I bought a '95z that is not firing. Long story short, the po put an opti unit on because of a rotor explosion and the car hasn't fired since. I have done all the test in the how to of this forum and came up with a bad distributor as the end result.


What I'm wondering is if the po may have assembled the opti wrong and how would I tell?


Trying to get all my ducks in a row before teardown as this will be my first go at an opti system and don't want to screw anything up.

The opti goes on only way, but sometimes it may take a little finesse to get it lined up on the cam drive. The po may have forced it on in the wrong clocking position, but you wouldn't know for sure unless you remove it. See if you can tell if the mounting flange is sitting tight against the block, and not getting tweaked.

Thanks, Camaro 69. I didn't know if it could have been put back together out of time or not. The po wasn't very mechanically inclined from what I was told, in fact when I bought the car he had added a resistor, for what reason I don't know, that put the car into theft mode causing it to not turn over much less start. I have removed that and the car will turn over now but has no fire which is what was originally what I've been told was wrong with the car to start with.


Here are my findings with the test I've done so far;


Ignition harness at connection on intake;
A to ground = 4.33 v
D to ground =4.33 v
C to ground = 12.57 v


Got the same readings at optispark connection.


ICM connector key on;
A to ground = 12.57 v
D to ground = 12.57 v
B to ground while turning engine over = 0.04 v
C to ground for continuity =0.001


Key side of ignition fuse = 12.58


Pink wire of black coil connector with key on = 12.56


Resistance between A and D at ICM plug with key off = 0.003


There may be something I've left out because of not writing it down in the heat of the moment but these test are what led me to the conclusion that I have a bad opti. If I'm missing something or need to do more testing please let me know, otherwise I guess I'll start the procedure to replace the opti this weekend

^^^ yep your going to have to pull the opti and have a look see. could be its a bad new unit, would not be the first time.

have you looked at this https://camaroforums.com/forum/lt1-l...t-start-65637/

yes craby, looked at that link as well. You said to pull the opti and have a look see, anything in particular I should be looking for?

make sure you have the right opti and its in right. heres a 93-94 opti drive gear.
http://shbox.com/1/opti_back.jpg

heres what yours should look like and how it should line up, its not that hard to get the pin in the wrong hole.
http://shbox.com/ci/opti_mounting.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/opti_back.jpg
make sure your rotor is on and not damaged.

If the opti was forced in wrong some of the internal stuff could have been damaged in the process, which would call for another opti.

Thanks for all u guys help. been kinda busy around here but maybe I'll get the chance to tare into it in the next couple days, will let ya'll know the outcome

pulling myself bald
 

It's been a while and I will try to keep calm and give you guys an update, I have installed a new Delphi opti, an ecu flashed to my vin from flashmasters on ebay ,and a new icm after the parts store said both the ones I had were bad and still NO freak'in SPARK.


Doing test from shbox 4th gen tech2 opti test the results I get are


ICM connector


A to ground = 12vdc
B " " while cranking = 3vac
C continuity with key on =0
" " " off =0
D to ground = 12vdc


OPTI harness


A to ground = 5vdc
B " " = 5vdc
C " " =12vdc
D continuity with key off = 0 ohm
" " " on =0 ohm


The test from the site above say that with key on the opti harness should read 60ohms with key on and I get 0ohms. Is this my problem? What do I do to fix it? If not what else should I be looking at to get spark at the coil?