Hey guys! I知 taking my old lt1 out and replacing it with a 350 replica from summit and converting to carburetor. Any ideas will help so much, as this is one big headache, but it will be worth it! I知 guessing I値l need a new distributor and all other components and heads because the lt1 has reversed cooling. The reason I知 removing the LT1 is because the machine work is double the price opposed to the 350 bored out, line bored and chucked, from summit. I want to carb it because it looks much cleaner than seeing all the wires. I am worried about tuning the carburetor; i have no idea about the technology of the past. I suppose it be easier but hey I知 new to it. Thanks for your time!
My set up is 383, -16cc pistons h beams, spraying a 200 shot. Not right away will I be spraying that much, i need to negate all the weak links in the car. Possible procharger in like 2 years.

 

You should do the research. There is some info over in the V6 section but unless your dealing with a 93 it is a huge pain and there will be NOTHING cheap about it. Remember your PCM controls just about eveything in the car. It needs to be connected and working. The newer the car the more issues. We have one V6 member do the project and he estimateed he spent 5K dealing with all the little issues. You have to make a whole new wiring harness and all new gages. Also you will need to cut the cowl and get a cowl hood. Still sound cheap? Once installed you have to pull the motor to work on the distrubuter.

Edit
Here is the thread. https://camaroforums.com/forum/4th-g...4-5-7-a-45720/
The other down side to this is the value of the car when done. It will drop to the value of the parts. I have seen many of these projects up for sale and they almost always end up parting out the cars. No one wants a car converted by a non- Pro.
Just in case I was not clear 94 and up you are going to need a different transmission.

 

Yeaa man i actually looked there first. There was a thread that caught my eye. But i did my research i guess im going to have to pay the machine shop tons of money! I found that switching the block to save move is actually more expensive. Thanks for the help dude!

 

could always looka around for a shortblock. heres an example of what you can find. probly have a place near you that sell em.

Remanufactured GM Chevy 5.7 350 Short Block 92-97 LT-1 | eBay

 

if you note on that link it doesn't include a timing set or camshaft. Although the cam is probably still good. Then if you need freight delivery to a home it costs even more and don't forget the core charge which you pay up front and then they eventually refund it.

My local Adv Auto where I now buy everything can source anything you need and they can get reman'd engines as well as crate engines. You should speak with the store mgr and see what the best deal they can do for you.

If massey reads this thread maybe he will chime in about his store where he works, what the chain is and if they source remand engines.

 

I work for O'Reilly's and we get our remanned engines from local sources. So depending on your local is going to depend on the prices. Now there should be NO reason that a LT1 would cost any more than any other engine to machine. All the machine work is the same no matter what engine is on the deck. My 3.8L will cost me about $18 per hole to bore and hone X6 and an Olds 350 I have at the same machine shop is also $18 per hole to bore and hone only x8. If a shop is charging you more because of the LT1 then you need to find a new shop simple as that. Aluminum heads will usually cost a few pennies more for clean up and machine work since they are more delicate and cannot be hot tanked.

Now some of the internal parts will cost more, pistons, cam, timing equips, are unique to the LT1, since there are fewer of these engines compared to the old school SBC the prices go up some.

All and all you will be much better off just forking over a few $$$ more to keep the LT1 in the car. The LT1 gets better mileage and much better HP than a carbed engine could ever get. With fuel injection you can have both economy and performance but with a carb you only can have one or the other.

Massey

 

Just keep the body control module and all the electric components under dash, the heavier gauge purple wire will be the ignition field wire and you can do away with the pcm. I have done the swap a few times.