Well, it looks like whoever had the car before me cut that thing out of the middle of the MAF but it looks like the let a frickin' dog naw it off, it's all jacked up in there. I haven't even tried to call MSD but I will. Pissed me off, that thing was like $550. I talked to someone else that said they're just junk though, that you'll be replacing it more then a stock one. What do you mean, OBD1.5? Would a shop know what's up with that?

 

i believe it stands for on board diagnostic. it refers to the computer and the way of interfacing with it and getting info. a good mechanic will know what u are talking about. autozone will sometimes read it for u if u get the right guy.

 

Ok guys, I'm running out of ideas. New OEM opti, new plug wires and plugs, fixed hole in MAF, new fuel filter, still doing the same damn thing. The opti was definitely a problem. The car will start right up now with NO missing or sputtering or dying BUT, but it will not take tremendous amounts of throttle under a load. With the clutch in you can kinda get it to about 4k by jamming the throttle but while driving, it does not wanna go past 3k very easily. It just kind of falls on its face, like it's starved for fuel. Like I said, the MAF had a crack/hole in the metal housing which didn't seem to be visible to the outside to let any air in behind the sensors but I took some epoxy and smoothed the crack/hole over. Any suggestions? New Walbro 255 fuel pump, too btw.

 

have u done a fuel pressure test on it yet? have u got old style knock sensors? water in the opti is death for it. good u got that done.

 

I was gonna have a fuel pressure test done on it tomorrow. I don't have the gear to do it. What kind of range should I be looking for? I have no idea about the knock sensors. How do I tell and what's the deal with those?

 

i just noticed u have lt headers and they will set your knock sensors off and retard your timing. seems like it would have started doing it when the headers were put on though. do a search on here on testing knock sensors and maybe just knock sensors, u should get all kinds of reading. do a search on testing 02 sensors and see what comes up to.

 

That's not the case anymore, I need to change that. The long tubes hung down kind of far and the car is lowered, long tubes versus dip in freeway=destroyed headers. It now has the same header, brand everything but just shorties. Should I still explore the same avenues. FYI, still no SES light, at all.

 

yes look into it. a bad knock sensor would do the same thing. check the wires and connections at the sensors to. scann or have it scanned for trouble codes. i think (on your yr) u can do some diognostic work while its running. at least with some scanners. if so u could see what was going on it may make finding the problem easier.

 

I'm starting to lean towards there being a problem with the fuel pump. I pulled that vacuum line off of the regulator and din't see or smell any gas in it. at either end. The pump is a Walbro 255 that just got put in less then a month ago with a fresh fuel filter. Those pumps are supposed to be pretty substantial and able to feed some pretty hefty fuel needs. They're also notorious for being louder then hell. Mine is very loud but when the car starts to appear fuel starved to where when you're driving and attempt to give it throttle at times, it won't go above an idle and as soon as you let off the throttle, it jumps to about 1500 real quick. When it does this you can barely hear the pump and then it gets louder again and the car will take throttle again. Any ideas? Thanks guys for all your suggestions thus far. I keep getting grief from people to just yank the LT1 out and stuff something else in the car but I refuse to give up on it yet.

 

I had a problem once with the MAF on a Buick, got a new one, still same problems. Parts house guys told me i had another problem so while we were talking i noticed a Sensor Tester behind them on the shelf and bought it. Tested the MAF right there and showed them the one i just bought was indeed BAD. Gave me another one, it ran fine after the second one. If you can get a 'Sensor Tester' , then you can test the MAF and the TPS or any other sensor and atleast rule them out. Good Luck !!
About 50.00 $$