Thanks. I will look into the cable although I don't have a computer to email to maps


After my last post, I drove the car to work and on a long test drive after work. There was zero sputter or rough idle.

This is after I finished the passenger side plug wires. I think maybe it helped reset the PCM when I unhooked the battery for 15-20 minutes. Strickly a guess though.

 

Update:

I took the car out for a longer test drive today. I drove the car for about 20-30 minutes. It did start sputtering again. Something new also happened, the check gauge light came on when the oil pressure was at 0-5 while at a stop, it also got hotter then normal and cooled off when I started moving again and the check gauge light went off after the oil pres rose under load

Any ideas on the issue. Which sensors should I be checking.
Can someone give me a list of sensors that the car uses for ignition, air/fuel, Etc.

 

make sure the coolant level is good and bleed the coolant system to see if you have air in there. if your losing coolant you will want to do a pressure test on the cooling system. check oil level to make sure you have enough oil. what wt of oil are you using? did the motor start making noise when oil pressure was low? could have been the gage. check gage light is to tell you something is wrong and to look at the gages. lol.

 

The oil and coolant is full.

I had the low coolant light on since i bought the car, I unplugged the coolant level sensor and it turned the light off. ? Weird? Today, the issues from the day before went away and now when the pressure drops( on gauge) it does not rough idle, over heat, or throw a check gauge light. Now the just sputters in closed loop and is bogging down bad with little power, with spit and sputter. I am honestly at a loss on the 42 code. I've replaced coil,Icm, checked wiring, ground, and unsure of what to actually be checking for. I am unable to check/test the temp sensors since I don't have a OHM meter.

I briefly googled for a diagram of all the sensors but came up with jnhelpful results.


Any other ideas or should I just send to a mech. Which I hate doing, but I can't seem to diagnose it. Would bad compression cause sputter in closed loop? Or should it have low compression 100% of the time.

 

have you replaced the water pump and opti yet. where you going to do that? its beginning to sound like an issue in the wiring or the main computer.

 

I have not replaced the opti or water pump. That is last on my list. I plan on Changing the temp sensors out first. If the opti was bad shouldn't it pull a 36 code?

If the opti and waterpump change does not fix the issue, I will just send it to a shop with more exp then I have.


The exhaust note also sounds 'fluttery?' now too. I've had the cat check and it passed before the note changed. What would cause it to bog down now?