LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

Leak from Headers...

Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:25 PM
  #31  
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yes, although some rods will not be as noticable at idle. rod has a different sound though. more of a metalic sound. lifters and exhaust leak are very close if the exhaust leak is small. it really sounded like exhaust leak when u throttled up. sounds good at wot. lol.,
 
Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:36 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by craby
yes, although some rods will not be as noticable at idle. rod has a different sound though. more of a metalic sound. lifters and exhaust leak are very close if the exhaust leak is small. it really sounded like exhaust leak when u throttled up. sounds good at wot. lol.,
Thanks lol I have flowmasters on it right now im thinking about changing them out to magnaflow or borla... depends how much money I wanna dump... good thing is I have the piping I just want the muffler with the tips
 
Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:38 PM
  #33  
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Oh found out its not an oil leak, its a brake fluid leak which sucks but oh well I think I have air in the system... This thursday im doing plugs, wires, cap and rotor which will cost me a pretty penny lol

So the only way to check for exhaust leak is just by looking and feeling around?
 
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 10:47 AM
  #34  
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Well, if you have an exhaust leak at the flange you need to replace the gaskets. If you have it in one of the intermediate pipes you need to listen to where it is...
 
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #35  
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The cailper bolts use a 3/8 allen. Camaro 69 has a good point with the allen bolts and you can get allen wrenches with a ball end to help you get the bolts in far enough to final tighten with the squared end of the wrenches. Have fun
 
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:02 PM
  #36  
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Ok guys... heres the deal, I checked the gasket and its rolled somehow, when I was putting the new gasket on I put the very first bolt on the headers and the last one so I can drop the gasket and have it catch on the hooks... which is what youre suppose to do I know that much...

So onto the important stuff.. the gasket is rolled, now im not sure if this is caused because the first time I put the gasket on one of the bolts wasnt tightened and I drove on it for a little while and it heated up the gasket or if my manifold is warped..

Its gonna be a pain to take the manifold apart and have it straightened wont it?
 
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:20 PM
  #37  
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never seen an exhaust manifold warp. steel is to hard to bend. i would recomend a new gasket and be carful to install so not to damage it. must not have been in the right place and got damaged so it wont seal right, what do u mean rolled?
 
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:48 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by craby
never seen an exhaust manifold warp. steel is to hard to bend. i would recomend a new gasket and be carful to install so not to damage it. must not have been in the right place and got damaged so it wont seal right, what do u mean rolled?
like it curled up from the heat... and im guessing from having an open space because of the first install when the bolt wasnt tight enough... man it was a pain doing it lol because I fat hands haha oh jeez here we go again lol
 
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 08:27 PM
  #39  
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check for any cracks or breaks. i have seen exhaust manifolds crack and break before.
 
Old Aug 10, 2009 | 10:24 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by craby
check for any cracks or breaks. i have seen exhaust manifolds crack and break before.
I think it is warped or cracked, the car was sitting for 10 months and it was overheating for a bit til I figured out what it was causing it...

But where the 2 middle pipes connect on the manifold the gasket has been burnt on the top leaving that metal film left.. so something is causing that to happen.. either a crack or its just not smooth anymore...

Anyone have a tutorial on how to properly take off the manifold on the driver side? Im learning as I go and so far I have learned a lot
 

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