So my 94 Z28 A4 just rolled past 230,000 miles. I just bought the car about a month ago thinking it had 128xxx miles and when I drove out of town to get it, it had 228xxx. But it ran great and I ended up buying it for $1000 cash. I accidently got the opti wet with antifreeze changing the radiator and puddles killed it twice so far... (oops). I plan on keeping this car for life because the body is completely rust free except for a little on the rear wheel wells and a small area under the drivers rear foot well. My question for the moment is Do I get an opti, plugs wires etc for this motor, or buy a used motor and build it up? (all new bearings, intake, cam, heads ported, balanced, etc. I want to eventually end up with a 450- 500hp car when its all said and done). The motor I have now is the original as far as I can tell. Oil pressure warm motor is about 20psi at idle and 40psi around 2000rpm running fresh 10w-40 Valvoline MaxLife and a AC Delco oil filter. Temp is about 190° cruising and gets around 210 waiting in drive thru lines. Thats according to the guages anyways. I know it'd be dumb to try to build the 230k mile motor, and I dont have time to take it out and rebuild it. So eventually it'll be out with the old/ in with the built in one weekend thing. How much longer can I expect the old motor to keep turning? Just looking for opinions/ advice here.

 

400 is not so hard to get to with the lt1. the higher you go from there the harder and more exspensive it gets. i picked up a new short block and later some new stock heads, got lucky, and buit it from there. pushing close to 400 at the wheels. i am looking at having the old block stroked to a 383 and see where it goes from there. lol

 

How long it may last is only a guess. I could tell you it'll last another 5 years and might die in 5 days. How sure are that that is the original engine with those miles and not a replacement?

As long as everything is in sound condition, keeping up with the oil changes and using quality oil and a filter (I recommend Castrol 5w-30/Mobil 5w-30 High Mileage for oil and K & N for the filter) as well as basic maintenance, the car could last you years to come and more than long enough to build up another engine to replace it.

Just remember, if that's the original trans and drive line, you will be wanting to beef them up either first or soon after the engine build to handle the extra strain you will be putting them through.

 

Thanks guys. Craby: Why is 400hp the magic number? Would making it to 500hp be unreasonable (ridiculously big cam, forced induction or whatever may be neccesary) for a daily driver? Now that your mention the trans and drive line I'll probably do the same thing with the trans. This may be a dumb question but what is the purpose of a higher stall torque converter? I was thinking 3.42 gears in a torsen type diff like the newer camaros have for reliability and I never really plan on drag racing... also I found a gmmg exhaust for $375 in really good condition on Craigslist near me. Good idea or no go?

 

I heard someone say hp is just a # ,I had 94 Dodge Daytona 90hp 4cyl that kicked but for such little hp,its the gearing tranny an engine working together to make a desent street car ,my opion on the miles check the VIn on the enegine see if there the same iseen them getting high 175.000 ,though falling apart ,some of the v6s get more though ,back in the day is it was not hp it was tlbs ,my new one willget 458tlbs wich is plenty of street power ,all depends on what you want ,how much you got to spend ,I se3en one the guy had it all the 9 inch ford rearend big block 800HP+ an $65.000 with 43.000 miles .full resto ,he got $21.000 at the end on ebay sale 94 z28 it was sweet an wishing I had the money just few weeks ago ,that what they cost new so the new owner got a great deal ,go with what you feel ,me I went with bang ffor my buck though some say I am speding to much ,for me it to save later bye going back to olds school you can get most guys get 383 ,but you can get 406 ,not excactly like mine with 202 heads an a stall cam 550hp ,coverts to about 450rwhp ,an a lot of extra parts if you wanted to go oldshcool with crate $5000.00 for the engine ,the place I got an engine karl performance sells 355 330hp ,compares to ls1 motor ,an reuse your manifold an injectors an save a lot 3999.00,easyest way to get to 400hp is port polishing heads an cam rebuilding ,though the other guys can probley tell you a lot more ,it realy depends on how much you want or got to spend I started a $5000.00 an will be at 8000.00 ,but that's the way it goes when you take the path I took,an that includes all new parts alternator starter 3 core radiator pulleys an rebuilt tranny 350turbo an labor as I am not doing the work myself ,you will save some doing the work yourself few thousand I good guess I just did not have the place an time ,3 weeks now wich will realy adding up to few days of work its mostly getting all the right parts altogether ,then I will have babey the rearend till next year ,will probely rebuild it ,don't need a ford rearend ,there only for realy powerful builds from what I see ,just need to make the gearing stronger in ours I would not go over 3.83

 

500 rwhp takes a little more effort than 400rwhp. It can be done N/A, but going forced induction makes it easier, but more expensive.

This should answer your question on a higher stall:
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=78/prd78.htm

2300-3000 rpm is what most go with for street/strip car.

If you plan on putting down that kind of power, be prepared to eventually upgrade the rear to a stronger 12 bolt, 9in, or S60. The 7.5" 10 bolt doesn't last long behind any amount of power, but, with an auto, you are less likely to destroy it than with a M6.

 

Thanks guys. N coconuts that did answer my question. Thank u! I basically want a car to throw my head back when I hit it hard and be some what competitive with the newer gen muscle cars. So about 400hp is probably enough for those goals Huh?
Is this a good idea?

Camero Trans Am 1998 - 2002 LS1 GMMG SS Cat Back Exhaust

 

Never ceases to amaze how many people misspell "Camaro"

 

My stock motor lt1 runs mid-high 12s with just a stall, headers, and good suspension. So pick a power level or a time you want to run and then go from there.

 

If you want something that's going to through you back in your seat and roast the tires when you stomp the throttle, then you are after torque, not horsepower. Torque is what gets you moving from a stop, horsepower is what keeps you moving. The two go hand and hand, but the more torque you have the more grins, imo. That is what twists the chassis and lifts the wheels off the ground.

The easiest way to increase torque is to increase the stroke on the crank. The added stroke allows the piston to move further down in the bore, thus allowing more air and fuel to enter the cylinder. It also gives more leverage which equals more torque. Most people will go from the stock 3.48 in stroke to a 3.75 and .030 overbore to make a 383 or a 3.875in crank and .030 for a 396. Each has it's pros/cons, but a 383 would more than likely satisfy your needs. Even a well built 355 would do the trick.