97 z28. the camero will fire up and idol to operating temp no problem, but if i give it throttle to heat up faster it shuts off at 160 deg. it has new fuel pump, filter, several sensors under hood, opti spark, water pump, radiator. im kinda stumped right now. thanks
mike

 

have u had it scanned for trouble codes?

 

are you saying ...leave the car idle until 195, and get in and drive no problems.
then ,
you start the car cold and take off like a normal person,and it will die at 160 every time?

that is very strange! usually strange problems like that are grounds ...
but they will tend to not be soo temp specific.
i've never seen opti-spark, but i'm no expert on what is for sale.
with the cap and rotor in front of the engine and if it's not been apart in a long time they are realy picky about collecting moisture and the cap realy needs to be well sealed and the vacuum line checked for vacuum.
if that's no problem check crank sensor or wires in the connector.
even a faulty cam sensor set-up. i was reading up a little on that opti-drive, looks pretty slick, but they get pretty technical and expanitory about how to set up the rings for the shealds and rings. but that would case more problems than what your saying, you would think

it's always so simple ... once you find the problem.

 

I see this a lot on all the other forums. Try replacing the icm Sounds like it is breaking down when it gets hot. Which all the lt1's are bad for.

Does it have to cool before starting back up? If so sounds like it. You can get it hot and take a bag of ice and put on it for a quick test.

 

I don't think the issue has been detailed sufficiently.

If you let it idle and go above 160, perhaps to 180, does everything run well then?

Is the problem just if you try and drive while it's cold?

I'm confused

 

I was thinking the icm may not be heat soaking as quick just letting it idle to temp. Where holding the throttle to warm it up. Will put off a little more heat in a way.

But for a lt1 to just up and shut off with temp. The only thing to point at is the icm.

 

i cant try to fire it up right now cause i have the radiator out and water pump off it, im chasing a minor oil leak right behind the harm balancer, and i was gonna pull the dist, and opti and check it for moisture build up. i really dont think its that cause when my opti went bad i couldnt start the car at all. i didnt replace the cap when i did the opti cause lack of money. there wasnt very much carrosion in the cap so i just cleaned it and put it back together. i have replaced the crank position sensor about a month ago, all the connectors look good but i havent test them yet. not enough time

 

how do you do the paper clip trick to get codes? and i have disconnected the battery the other day, and im under the impression it eraces the codes if power is severed.

 

cant do the paper clip trick on a 97. only works on a 93. yes it does erase the trouble codes when unhooking the battery. front main seal is the only one behind the balancer. it could be draining down from the water pump seal or the opti seal or the front intake maniflod seal. i had the dang power steering pump leaking down the mounting bracket and coming out under the opti and looked like it was from under the balancer too. what kind of opti did u get. the cheap ones can last a day or a week or a yr but not much longer.

 

i got auto zone opti, (ac delco) it went out 3 times so i got a gm replacement after that. i have a life time warrenty on it and im at the point where all i have to do is pull the harm balancer off and that pully to get to the opti so i might just pull it and take it to my local chevy dealership. can they test those at all. man i just signed up on this site and im super glad i did all you guys on here are prob smarter than i am when i comes to cars and you all are super helpful and i am thankful