When doing the trans pan, loosen one end only enough so the pan sits at an angle. That way, the fluid will drain out without making a huge mess. The rest of the flush can be done a few other ways that are personal preference. Diff cover do the same as the trans pan to help eliminate a mess. Maybe clean up the diff cover while it's off.

 

how do you plan on flushing the tranny and getting all 12 quarts? Or, are you just dropping the pan and using 4-5 quarts?

 

Just dropping the pan.

 

while you're there

Buy Anchor Mount Engine-Transmission 2817 at Advance Auto Parts

and don't pay list price. Print out the price from rock auto and have advance charge you no more than $10

 

Don't be surprised if they turn you down though. We don't usually price match RockAuto or any thing online other than our own website. Especially if the warranty isn't the same, in this case Limited Lifetime from Advance and a One Year from Anchor itself. Add in the cost of shipping and you're looking at about the same and more if the part fails under warranty because you have to pay to have shipped back. You might get lucky though. Some stores (both of mine) bend the rules so the customer is always happy, so they might drop it to ten bucks.

 

Just by luck I got into contact with the previous owner of my Camaro and he says my maro had 12000 miles on tie rebuilt tranny and it has LT4.heads and LT4.cam. I think my ticking.noise I'm hearing is a slight knock from not running high.octane octane Fuel .tthrough it. Is that a safe guess?

 

Not to be a jerk, but having LT4 heads/Cam isn't really much, even if you had the LT4 intake as well. It's a bit of a improvement over the stock LT1 castings, but not enough to warrant praise. With that said, I would double check that those are indeed LT4 heads. If I remember correctly, the LT1 intake won't work correctly with the LT4 heads due to the runners. You can use the LT1 intake...just doesn't flow right or something.

As for not running HO fuel. You can get by using 87 or 89 if your knock sensor/module is functionally correctly as it'll adjust timing to the fuel. But for best performance I'd spend the extra 40 cents and put 91 or 93 in it.

 

Lt4 heads put out 30 more HP over lt1. Add a hot cam kit w/1.6rr, headers, that something to talk about. Imo.

 

Problem is that around here there is one place in town that sells 91 octane and it requires a credit card (only 16 of course I don't have one)

 

all 3 adv autos I patronize have no issues trying to match. If there is a shipping charge from the online supplier I take that into account.

Example, I just replaced the passenger side window motor. I printed the price from Rock, the price from partsgeek as well as one from ebay. 2 sites included free shipping and the most expensive was $20 less than adv auto.

I said I didn't expect for them to match the ebay price but would pay $5 more than the most expensive unit i found in exchange for the convenience of dealing local. They agreed so I got $15 off list price of the motor.

I understand cash flow and inventory mgmt and the overhead of keeping a large inventory and distribution channel. I also understand the problem of not being able to turn inventory because consumers are going on line.

It's a fine line that adv auto, autozone et al must learn to walk. There is value in getting parts locally but sometimes they think the "value add" is worth way more than the market does and thus we go on line.

If my car is broken and I can't live without it then there is more value to the part than if I can wait a few days for the Fedex guy.