Ok, so I was recently given (yes given) a 95 z28 convertible A4. The car is completely stock and had been sitting up for the past three years. Naturally I immediately replaced the belt, hoses and fluids. After a full seafoam treatment the car is running remarkably well for 167k miles and having sat up. Cosmetically its a little rough (paint is shot and interior could use some love) but that's not much of an issue to me right now.

My intentions for the car are for it to be a weekend toy with the occasional trip to the track. Defiantly not my daily driver but still a fully functioning street car. Which brings me to my question, where to start? 5k budget.

There are the given bolt-on's (headers, CAI, cat back, TBs and so on). I've also been looking at the Advanced Induction and Lloyd Elliot heads and cam packages and intake manifold porting.

But what products offer the best bang for your buck? What areas are worth investing in higher end parts? If you were me, where would you invest your 5 grand?

 

Headers, CAI, LE2 heads, and a nice stall. That should do about $3k right there. I'd put the other 2k away and save for a new rear end.

 

So you would go with the LE heads over the AI. Which cam would you recommend? LE's 218/224 or their 232/240? Or would you go with something completely different?

With the headers, long tubes, shorties? Any manufacturer/model you would vouch for?

 

LE does amazing work for hand porting and the cost is nice, plus you get a cam with the package. AI does have the advantage of being CNC'd which is nice, but expensive and doesn't get a cam.

Because it's not DD, I'd go with the 232/240, and even that one is decent for driving.

Headers: Get LT if your state allows them, even if they're emission equipped ones. If not, shorties are still and upgrade over the manifolds. I bought painted Pacesetter because I was on a budget and haven't had any trouble since using DEI header paint. Kooks are supposed to be some of the best one's, but are pricey.

 

have a look in my garage list. thats what i would do. https://camaroforums.com/forum/garag...-16-craby.html

 

First question is how much of the work can you do yourself? How are you fixed for tools and a place to work?

Next question is how much do you care about the paint and or the top? It is pretty easy to put 5K in paint and a new top. A 14 year old top can look preety good if its been in the garage but the factory material ages. Once you get the car out in the sun the top will shrink pretty quickly and tear not too long after.

You really want a plan that tries to cover everything, 167K is a lot on a transmission and rear and the three years sitting did not help the transmission. A well used seal can hardend up if it sits for any time. Hard seals can crack when pushed. Now add in 150 HP and some nice wide tires and the chance of the transmssion lasting are slim.

Also increasing the HP on a aged bottom end without going thru it can be a big waste of money. You really want a sound foundation before you are building HP.

IMO enjoy the car while you collect parts. Then install your new drive line all at only. That would give you some time to find deals. I have seen some great deals on LT1s from guys moving to LS1. Low miles motors in some cases that all ready have the bolt ons. 3 months ago I saw a LT1 383 short block all forged never installed built by a local pseed shop still in the bag for $1200. I found a stock Lt1 with 32K on it for $1000 last year.

 

There is an autocraft center here at Ft Polk with all the necessary tools, lifts and equipment to do the work myself.

Top is in brand new condition and obviously not the original. So no issues there.

I'm really interested in the less "glamorous" areas that you alluded to. Like I originally posted, all the obvious bolt-ons are known. But I fully agree that there is no point in building up the top end and adding power only to have another critical link in the power train not be able to handle it. Especially in an 18 year old car. That being said, the car really does run and drive remarkably well for its age and at a cost of $0 I got the deal of the century.

 

Since it's a weekend toy mostly, I would start with Koni SA or Bilstein shocks on all fours and Strano 35/22 hollow sways -- then you will have a much more enjoyable drive and handling on curves... Welded subframe connectors like UMI 3-pt are a must on a 'Vert, and a shock tower brace -- cheap you can do this first in 15 minutes...

ARH LT Headers & cated y-pipe and SLP PowerFlo or Borla Adjustable catback and you're about spent, depending on if you or a shop does the work... Look into an electric diverter for sound adjustments from your seat...

 

If you want a car with a bit more go I would sell the lt1 and pick up a nice ls1. They can be had for like 6 grand. LS1s take better to mods and it doesnt take much to go fast.

 

He is right! Even needing a little body work your rag top should bring 3-3.5K, Add your 5K to that and you in a 325 HP SS at or just under 100K. You could even find one that has 2-3K worth of upgrades already done to it for 8K.