I made a prior post about my warped heads and that money was a problem since i was going to school ... my situation has changed i have decided that i do not need to go to school with a hayabusa so i sold it i now have a good amount of money that i didnt befor and im not apposed to dropping every cent into my 95 z28 conv. and here is the question.

How do i make my 95 z28 conv. a mid 11s car and still be reliable as a daily driver i already have a fully built trans and rear end so all i need is engine help and maybe suspension if its needed or if i have enough money. While i did get about 10,000 from my busa and i dont mind putting it al into the car i would like to get a few things for the inside i.e. roll cage/bar ... (its a conv. if im fast i might as well be safe lol) and a few other things here and there so if i can get 11s and reliable for 5,000-7,000 that would be sweet

Please tell me this can be done and the best way to do it id rather have it cost a little more and be rock solid than cost less and blow up (if your gonna do something do it right so you only have to do it once am I right?)

Thanks for all your help in advance

Mike

 

First off, you are deffinently going to need a roll cage, not for safety, but for rigidity. You go putting as much HP into a convertable that you'd need to go 11's and you'll twist the body. The hardest part about what you're thinking of doing is going to be strengthening up the body of the car so it can withstand that much TQ. I would suggest something else for a 11sec car.

 

arrow is right. you're going to need subframe connectors like right now. and then a cage is a must if you plan to drag your convertible. i believe if you run a 12.99 or faster, you need a cage in a convertible.

if you want a drag car, suspension is where i'd start first. no point in having a boat load of power if you can't hook it to the ground.

what do you mean by "built rear end"? if its a 10 bolt rear end, you will blow it up eventually. i hope you have a 12 bolt or a 9" under it

as far as motor goes...do you want to go FI or nitrous? or straight motor?

 

Damn I didn't think about the whole twisting thing ... lame I guess I can settle for mid 12s can a conv. handle that a little better? I don't want to screw up the car or anything also I don't car if its fi nirous all motor

I mean I guess I can just make this one my daily driver and then buy something else to make real fast but I still want this one to be nice/quick what would you do if you had my car? not crazy enough to need a lot of subframe's or roll cage but still a nice fast daily driver that can still hold its own.

Maybe like lt4 kit or something of that nature not crazy but still good power i have heard lt4 kits are a waste of money for what you get. but something like that might be ok for a conv.?

 

trust me, as a convertible, you NEED subframe connectors right now. first off, even stock power will get your car to start twisting. second, its probably the best mod you can do on a convertible. the car drives so much better with them. i'd STRONGLY recommend them

as far as power, i'd go with an LE1 package from lloyd elliott. should get you into the 350-360 rwhp range and that's plenty of power for most things on the road. www.elliottsportworks.com

 

I've seen some 500-550 HP converts that are just running subframes and roll bar. I would think that would be about the max you could go with just aftermarket parts. Any more and you'd really need to tie the roll bar into the front and rear subframe.

 

Cool ill look into some of that is there anyway you can give me a list of the best subframe connectors, suspension, any boltons i should get (cold air intake things like that) to get and where to get them and do you think i would be able to do the le2 setup?

 

you'll want to get double diamond weld in subframe connectors, they are the strongest from what I've been told. They aren't cheap though. There are several makers and I couldn't tell you which brand/mfg. is the best, same with roll bars. You'd at least want to go with a 6 point roll bar, maybe more, weld in style. And the biggest thing when you're doing these is to tie them in together, will make your car very rigid.

For suspension, there are several brands, I like BMR, whammer has alot spector stuff I think it is, if not he'll chime in. You're just going to have to do some research and find the stuff you like. It's all pretty much going to work the same if you go with a name brand.

Wham, who's the suspension guy you recommend a lot? Once he pipes up, give his guy a call and let him know what you want to do with your car and he'll help you set up the componets for that.

 

lol, you had to ask didn't ya arrow? my mind is not all there right now...give me a few minutes. his name is sam strano. i believe his site is www.stranoparts.com. you could also go to www.herronperformance.com. shon herron USED(not sure if he still does) hold the bolt on record in the 1/4 mile. he knows his stuff and is a good guy

i use UMI brand suspension pieces. they're all pretty much the same, just whatever you prefer. there's UMI, spohn, BMR, etc. also, i've never seen double diamond sub frame connectors for a vert. can you link me to them arrow? i'd be interested in getting some for my car if they're out there.

 

I know I've seen them, I had them saved in my favs for a long time. You can use DD's for a non vert, you just have to modify them to fit over the existing SFC's, or cut the existing ones out. I'll see if I can find the ones I had saved, but it's been several years since I lost my link.