Seriously if this doesnt go back on topic I'm locking this thread and handing out another week long ban.

 

After a day of assembly, I have my doubts about this car running again. I had to grind a lot off the block to clear the rod bolts, actually going into the cooling system. I repaired and reinforced the grinding with JB weld. I know, this is a ghetto red neck build. I just don't have anything to do. The rods clear the stock cam by how much I do not know. Here is a pic of my nice clean work area!
I also dropped the crank from about three feet in the air, and chipped a main cap, oopps!

 

C and C auto in Manassas has the only unleaded gasoline available. It is high octane though which sucks. I think the gasohol that you can get at the pump has fireretardents in it now.

 

I don't think the guys that balenced it knew what they were doing. They did'nt have a machine just a couple blocks of wood nailed together to make a jig. Funny thing is the guy said it did'nt matter if I used my stock steal flywheel or my aluminum one. Plus he sent the crank out to have metal put in the front counter weight at my expense when he drilled a big hole in it? I've lost all hope!

 

sorry to hear that...but that's what happens when you half *** a build

 

Today was a good day. I installed my new oil pump with a copper gasket and loaded it up with lithium assembly lube to be ready for priming. A little JB weld before tapping the oil pick-up tube into place. The heads installed without a hitch. First buffing the gasket surfaces with acetone and lintless cloths, the Fel-Pro 1074's fit snug. I was very impressed with the ARP head bolts as I first cleaned all the packing grease off of them and the washers, lubed the bolt heads and washers with a new ARP super lube mixed with a little Mobile one engine oil. It has a "minty" freshness to it. Then with the ARP liquid teflon I kept a nice coating on the threads. Easing the head bolts to sixty-five foot pounds after a thirty-five initial torque, in the correct sequence, I felt accomplishment. Then installing my new roller lifters and chromoly pushrods with a little tacky red assembly lube I brought her to TDC and did a valve adjustment. The stock windage tray was installed on top of the main studs/ARP nuts, with three bolts/nuts I picked up from home depot, extending off the main studs about an inch! It was a little scary putting the oil pan on and hearing a "clunk", especially after beating the oil pan into submission to clear the main girdle. I did a little extra clearencing on the oil pan and gasket to miss the rod bolts, then realized it was just tapping the top of the pan at the front, which I took care of with a few presice blows from my Eastwing! Using all GM timing cover gaskets I was able to get the water pump seal on correctly too!
I am not half assing anything bud!

 

And I did'nt forget to use liquid teflon on the steam pipes' banjo bolts with four GM tube gaskets! So there fool!

 

O'ya, anyone know the steam pipe's torque specs for the banjo bolts? I went thirty-five! Also who's got the oil cooler o'ring seals? I think the part number is 14090908?
I'm ready to prime this biotch!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

how is that not half-assing a build? you even said "this is a ghetto red neck build".

anyway, keep us posted on how things are going

 

Well while doing some moc-up I rolled the engine and the crank fell out, but it landed on my knees first then fell on the floor after hitting the engine stand. I did'nt see any nicks on the journals but the center main cap had a "chip" missing. I do consider myself a red-neck though, and I live in a "wooded" ghetto.

Are you going to answer my questions or just quote me?