So i decided to break down my last post because i got no replies. Im looking at a stage 4 competition clutch. A little under 300. Good reviews too. Will it be super touchy? Also, should i do a new master cylinder? I only have 14k on the car. What should labor be for the instal without the master cylinder?


97z, maf, hypertech tune, 80 series muffler, and short tube headers under my bed.lol

 

bumping up for ya. because what different shops charge it can be different by quite a bit, you would get a better estimate from the shop you plan to use. i would guess 300 to 600 bucks but i havent used a shop in a while.

 

Your car only has 14k? 14,000? Miles?? And it's a 97?

 

Im doing it with my buddy (ase mec) next weekend. spec stg 3. Im paying him 200. Hes doing a couple other little things, but im going to try and learn some things. WEll its like 13,500 at the moment. Clutch isnt bad, my pressure plate just shakes a little when the car is not in gear

 

Who told you the vibration was from the clutch? Engine vibration at idle is not an easy thing to diagnose. Literally anything in motion can cause the vibration. The diagnoses requires the use of a reed tach or some other vibration analysis tool. The main reason I ask is because with all the GM training I had and the right equipment I could not pin point the vibration to any single item on the Crank shaft assembly. I could tell you it is the crank assembly (vibration damper, crank, rods piston, flywheel or pressure plate). But since those items are all bolted together there is no way I know of to be sure it is any one of those.

If the reed tach tells me it’s the crank assembly then is become a guessing game. Since I was doing warranty work most of the time issues were parts that where manufacture wrong. Flywheel balance was pretty common but on a 15 year old car that did not have the vibration before I would look real hard at the vibration damper.
Just a FYI out of all the cars that had a vibration the crank assembly was rarely the issue. Bent water pump shafts, Pulleys sitting on the shaft crooked or running out, even slightly miss ground cams where more common than the crank assembly on a new car. Heck on a 15 year old car a little soot could build up in the EGR valve or the IAC valve and cause a shake at idle.

When a customer complains about vibration it can be caused by something out of balance or alignment (vibration) or by the engine not running right (shake) they feel different but only to someone trained. There is a lot of details about a vibration I could never explain in a post but a vibration is tied to RPMs It can be bad at 1100 RPMs and get better over 1300 RPMs. A vibration does not care about engine load. Now an Engine vibration can change with load due the rubber motor mounts but it is still there at idle or driving, with the back wheel on jack stands however you test it. This is very easy to spot on a reed tach. The only way to fix a vibration is to align, balance or replace the bad parts. A shake on the other hand with vary with load. It will get worse or better going uphill and as you mention it can be there with no loan and go away completely with load.

There is a third type of Vibration I call a “shimmy” This is when a Vibration only occurs under loan. Example is a busted transmission mount, the mount screws up the U-joint alignment which causes a vibration but only under load. Sometimes it can be hard to tell if you dealing with a shimmy or a shake.

 

where are you guys getting the details to reply. Gorn wrote a book and I can't even find the question............

 

It started with me asking how he knew the “shaking” was from the clutch but ended up as the ramblings of someone who has no interest in what he is suppose to be doing at work .

 

lol. I saw the red flag the OP threw as well. To add to Gorn's novel....if you're feeling a shake when the trans is wheeling in neutral (as his is), and if it's not while in gear and driving, then I'd be a lot more inclined to suspect the pilot bushing over the pressure plate.

 

Gorn, mind blown. I didnt get the clutch, 3 dif people on ebay had it posted, and after i bought it, i was told it was out of stock by 3 dif people. FML, so now im waiting for like 750$ to get back in my account. So how can i get my car checked? Im completely clueless after reading all this.

 

If I remember right there is a vibration app for the Iphone/Ipod. That could come in real handy. I think it was 6 bucks. If the vibration happens at at 1000 RPM the doft where should measure the the Hz or 1000, of cycles per minute. At that point you need to figure out what is turning at that speed.