the iac motor can make a noise like that. when the key is turned on it closes. could also be a relay. im not so sure its a problem noise though. some things come on when u turn the key on and sometimes they dont. i know my fuel pump will prime after setting but sometimes when it does not set for very long it just clicks when i turn the key on. still starts the same and everything.

 

yeah.. these camaros are real finicky.. she ran all day without dying.. only problem was a bit of an over heating problem... i think one of the three cooling fan relays might be toast... and i think i may have a short in a wire because that p0336 code keeps commin up and also the p0420 which is the code for the cat but i know that could be an O2 sensor going bad also.... so still plenty of things to keep me busy with this car.. i must admit it has been a fun hair pulling event tho...

 

and another thing... how can i check the relays for the cooling fans without just replacing it with a new one... yeah im cheap...

 

and the cooling fans should kick on at 210 degrees right?

 

i just found that the cooling fans will kick on if u have the AC running regardless of temp

 

Okay so now i have a fuse that keeps blowing on me. Is the A/P fan 20 amp fuse. i have a ohms meter and a multi meter i need to know how to use the buggers tho. and which wires if any i should be touching or what all to do........... all i need to know is what to poke and what else to poke at the same time to find out what wire is bad.. or component

 

im hoping pete will come back on this. he usually knows the right way to go on something like this. have u checked the wires to the fans for any indication fo frayed wires or bare wires? also check the fans to see if there not the problem. a shorted fan motor will blow the fuse.

 

yessss dude... i went down there and just trouble shooted wire with an ohm meter for 5 hours in the blazing heat... got a nice tan and found my problem all in the same day.. seems a connector to the air pump was not properly secured and melted to the exit manifold, ill get a picture later.. also checked the connectors leading to the CPS and found a little bit of oil in it.. took some electrical cleaner and dust off to it and replaced the rubber gasket for the plug.. lol time for an adventure to the good ol "pick-a-part"

 

and another thing. does anybody have a picture of a secondary air injection bleed solenoid valve for a 96? i went down to the dealer to try to see what this part looks like and they tried to sell me Duralast / Canister Purge Solenoid For 1996 Chevrolet Camaro 5.7L SFI OHV 8cy.. now the secondary air injection bleed solenoid valve should not have any vacume hoses comming from it. I know this because the secondary air injection bleed solenoid valve does not exist on the vacume schimatic located under the hood and to quote what i wrote earlier " i went down there and just trouble shooted wire with an ohm meter for 5 hours in the blazing heat... got a nice tan and found my problem all in the same day.. seems a connector to the air pump was not properly secured and melted to the exit manifold " I now know that the plug that melted was not to the air pump. The air pump is hard wired directly to the wiring harness. What broke and melted to my exit manifold and caused the 20 amp AP/Fan fuse to keep blowing was the secondary air injection bleed solenoid valve. I also have a funny feeling this is causing an over heating problem with the car also. I tried to search for the part but without the part number i am pretty much blind and google was not much help in locating this part either. I think the secondary air injection bleed solenoid valve is mounted on the driver side air hose leading from the exit manifold to the air pump right under the intake tubing.

 

and i also now smell gas comming in to the cab through the vents for my ac