OK, as I usually do in forums start with the story then the problems.
I put a used lt1 out of a impala ss, which is obd1, my car is obd2 of course cause i bought it with a blown motor. So I know I have a crank sensor code stored. I have put about 300 miles on this engine and then the trans goes out, I finally get a new trans last week. And with in less than a few hundred miles my new setup the car dies going 65mph. I pull over and try to start it, thinking battery died but lights were still burning. It would not start, just thunk, the starter engaged turned motor a 1/4 turn. So I was hoping I just lost some cold cranking amps on this battery. I called my wife to jump the car and it fired up but has a slight knock. I looked at oil pressure and I have 20 idling and almost zilch when in gear.
I'm aware that I'm going to need a new pump, so far the only thing ive done is pulled injectors to see if i could narrow down to which cylinder and all cylinders made the car bog down except #6 (no change at all). My next thought was push rods or lifters. I pulled valve covers and started, I have little to no oil coming out of push rods. But could not see any broken springs from that small view I had. But now it starts with out jumping, did I free something up that made it stall? And I can hear a slight knock up top. I can feel the knock with my hand on the intake.
So my questions are
1- why did it die
2- why would it start back up
3- what's the knocking and where do I start next

 

check all the bolts to the flywheel. could be a bearing goin. can you record the noise and post it

 

Yes I can try tomo, all I have is my android phone. If I loose the engine power will that kill the trans to? Cause when I got it started and drove it and it took a while to shift, may have been cause of the way it was running. Will I notice anything with flywheel, crack bent or something?

Also if a crank or cam bearing has failed or spun, cut off my oil pressure period, why would it start and run now? I'm confused. If it lost oil and locked up it would be locked up and not run am I right?

 

dont know what trans you have but the bolts that hold the converter or clutch in may have come lose and are jaming up things. a spun or bad bearing can sieze things up when at operating temp and when cooled off come lose. what kind of noise, knock, click, tick, bang, clang, etc. and where its coming from would be the most help. what kind of oil and oil filter you using? wt, brand, type.

 

I think mobile 1, I do need to change it cause I was holding out for some break in time. Its a used engine till I get the z motor built. But im just using 5w30 I know that much. Should I try something a little heavier? I'll post a video around 9am or so, I did a video on my oil pressure today but not of engine I'll see if it loads.

 

may want to go with heavier wt. i used multigrade in the netter but the motor was used to plain old 30 wt. motor did not like it, blew in a couple days. if the motor sat for a long time the bearings can get flat spots that can cause failure. also some of the cheap filters can go to pieces so dont go cheap on filter.

 

Never trust a factory gage, you need to get a manual gage on the motor to find out your actual oil pressure.

About 30% of all heat in the motor travels through the oil, the only real cooling the pistons get is from oil. If oil flow is very low pistons will start to grow with heat. This can cause the motor seize up (shut down). The symptom would be the motor would crank by starter real slow until it had a chance to cool off.

If the motor just shut off and would not restart until later there could be a lot of other things that could cause that.

 

2013-01-30_12-40-31_645.mp4 Video by 85camarojunkie | Photobucket

Here's my oil pressure video. Its cray cause not was cold and I didn't rev high. The when it dropped in rpms that's when I put it in gear. I'm not 1oo% set on it being oil pump. But i m going to try oil later. Would u say 1ow-3o?

And I'll post a video of car idling under hood in a minute, I'll try to move arund it but I know the sound won't be that great.

Sorry for words being out of place I'm on mobile and I can't read the entire post as I'm typing.

 

OK here's the next video, I said I had rockers off I meant valve covers in video. (I was nervous with stage fright and my voice being on the internet, lol) but as I said I feel it in throttle body so I know its up front. I put fingers on each rocker and I can't feel anything, so I'm guessing its not valve train cause is think I could feel it. I went ahead and pulled wire off of number 6 to. So it has spark but I'm not sure if that injector is out or its a dead cylinder, removing dark didn't change it either. With in 2 minutes of running every header tube was hot but that one.
I read that with no crank sensor it wouldn't show misfire codes is that true? I'm getting a code reader from work tonight. Its just a cheap scanner nothing fancy, without the crank sensor would it say misfire? And if it was injector will it tell me injector or is lacking a crank sensor effecting any of that.
Thanks guys

 

The order of things as I read it....
1) Engine wasn't making any noise before.
2) You're experiencing a (yet to be verified) dangerous drop in oil pressure.
3) The engine quit/killed/froze up for no apparent reason.
4) The engine started back up after a period of rest.
5) Now the engine is making a knocking noise.
Does that pretty much sum it up?
All of those point to a low oil pressure or flow causing the engine to seize, and the noise is the damage it caused.
Before tearing into anything else, you really want to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge as Gorn suggested, so you know what the oiling system is really doing, or not.

Oh, and your second video is a no-show.