LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

Can anyone HELP ??

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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #11  
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when i mentioned that excessive cranking thing was because the times the opti wont spark it will sometimes still inject fuel.and ocassionally when the opti does throw a spark it can backfire through the exhaust hard enough to split your muffler from end to end
 
Old Feb 13, 2010 | 12:02 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by skinut
Pluse ?? I take your reffering to the opti unit.
yes the pulse comes from the optic reader in the distributor and thats were the slang word (opti) for the distributor comes from. when we refer to the opti were talking about the distributor, its much easier to spell and type. lol
 
Old Feb 13, 2010 | 12:22 PM
  #13  
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Thank you very much... Ive got a buddy bringing his shops snap-on scanner over this afternoon. Let yall know what codes were working with this evening .
 
Old Feb 14, 2010 | 05:51 PM
  #14  
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Got it running... Put a new opti on and it fired right up.. Seems to be running pretty good. Still has a little miss and hesitation but its running finally. But now ive got a new issuse the temp gauge keeps shooting up in the orange!! I diddnt replace the pump do to the fact that im not made of money. So i went down to zone and got a new temp sensor and thermostat and its still doin it. Got a feeling im gonna be taking the water pump back off.... What do you guys think??
 
Old Feb 14, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #15  
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1) You didn't accidentally leave off the water pump drive shaft did you?
2) Are you sure you got all the air bled out of the system?
 
Old Feb 14, 2010 | 06:01 PM
  #16  
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yes im 100% sure i didnt leave it off I guess there could be air in the system ill look into that tonight
 
Old Feb 14, 2010 | 06:29 PM
  #17  
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i would agree with 69, u probly did not get all the air out.

Originally Posted by craby
ok when u bleed it first fill the radiator to the point that its full but not draining back into the overflow hole. open the bleeder at the thermostat and when u see coolant close then do the one under the tb if u have one there. then open the one by the alt if u have one there, i didnt get any fluid out of this one untill the motor was running. refill the radiator as before. then start the car with the cap off. the water level may drop so fill as it does. after it quits dropping put the cap back on and open the bleeders one at a time again to let the air out. as i said do it with the front of the car on the up side of a hill or driveway. then take the car for a drive a block or two down the road and back and bleed and refill one more time.
 
Old Feb 14, 2010 | 07:07 PM
  #18  
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Craby can you explain the proper way to bleed the cooling system... Thanks
 
Old Feb 14, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #19  
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i thought i did in the last post, if u have questions let me know. there are three bleeder screws on the cooling system. one on the hose by the alternator, one on the lower side of the thottle body and one on the thermostat housing.

Originally Posted by craby
ok when u bleed it first fill the radiator to the point that its full but not draining back into the overflow hole. open the bleeder at the thermostat and when u see coolant close then do the one under the tb if u have one there. then open the one by the alt if u have one there, i didnt get any fluid out of this one untill the motor was running. refill the radiator as before. then start the car with the cap off. the water level may drop so fill as it does. after it quits dropping put the cap back on and open the bleeders one at a time again to let the air out. as i said do it with the front of the car on the up side of a hill or driveway. then take the car for a drive a block or two down the road and back and bleed and refill one more time.
 
Old Feb 14, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #20  
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sorry i must be blind cause you sure did.. Ill have to take the carr dwn the street where theres a good size hill.. Only question is leave the cap on or off? keep car running??
 



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