I guess I just been working too long on cars. The timing cover has THREE ROUND OIL SEALS on the front of it. These seals can be removed with a $4.00 hook seal puller and installed with a socket (must encompas the entire outer edge).

The lower balancer hub must be removed with a special $60-80 puller. All three must be done and I am willing to bet you may need to sleeve the hub. Best to just buy a new one, I hate sleeves.

You sure you got this thing torn down?

 

here is a picture of what mine looks like...


i probably can get the hub puller rentedfrom Autozone...
which one exactly do I ask for???
how do i know if the hub is re-useable???
how do i re-install the hub???
how again do i re-install the seals with a socket???

thanx in advance for your help !!!

 

Use deep well sockets so you can tap the new seals in evenly. You want the socket to be big enough for each seal to sit on the outside edge. Use one too small or tap it too hard and you will mess up the seal.

The tool you need is made by OTC part # 6267 I doubt AutoZone carries quality tools such as this.

The hub must be installed with both the crank pully and hub notches lined up. Then you will have to spin the motor to TDC and install the hub with the arrow in the 12oclock possition in order to maintain factory balance. I made a special tool to make installation of the hub easy but I sold them all [X(]

 

maybe i should just do the top two seals... the lower one is below opti after all..

can i just pick them out with smth and destroy them if i have to,since i am replacing them anyways???

and i guess i will try to replace the intake gasket if i figure out how...

 

so the parts are on the way... i got the x-vented Accel opti and I went ahead and picked up a brand new AC Delco water pump since i was at it... i also ordered Felpro intake gasket and the two top seals in the timing cover... and i ll use the ultra-copper silicone...i guess i will wait to do the lower crank seal until i absolutely have to, i ll clean it up for now and see just how much oil it will be leaking out of there, cuz it looks pretty clean now... wish me luck with getting those damn seals in and out...

 

The timing cover gasket is judt that, & goes between timing cover and engine block. The round seals are for the various shafts that go through the timing cover, crankshaft, water pump drive, optispark drive.

 

so i am wondering if i can get that waterpump seal without removing the shaft the waterpump rides on...

 

still wundering and wundering...

 

Yeah that big shaft on the top should just pull off. Its really just a sleeve. The splined shaft on top (Water Pump Drive) will not pull out! And has a pressed bearing on the other side.The top sleeve (Big rusty thing on top seal)needs not be in any special possition for the water pump

Note for you Non-Vented distributor guys - The center shaft (Distributor drive shaft) will pull out and is indexed so it will only go on one way.

Go to the autoparts store and buy a hooked seal puller. (Less than $10.00) makes the job a snap and you wont mess nothing up. Put the seals in by starting them gently and evenly with a hammer. Then use your socket or pipe to run the the rest of the way down. Dont get carried away or you will be buying another set of seals.

 

hey, thanks mang, this project is such a drag, dont know what i would do without you guys