Hello everyone,

I'm basically new to domestics, current car is a 93 rx7, but I'm considering the purchase of a 95 camaro, 6-speed. Within an couple of weeks of ownership, I plan on placing a vortech or procharger (6-8 psi) onto the LT1 motor. I just have several of questions.


How reliable is the LT1 with a supercharger bolted on?

Is it necessary to forge the internals?

What is this opti-spark and oil in the intake manifold, I've been reading about?

Is there any other concerns I should be worried about with the purchase of this model camaro?



All inputs is truely appreciated...

P.s ---the reason I didn't mention newer model camaro's "LS1," is due to price constraints.

 

If no one on here knows I would check LS1tech...those guys would know

 

6-8 psi should be fine as long as you are on good tune and run 93 octane or better, intercooling will help keep it safe as well. The opti-spark is basicly the distributor on the LT-1, they tend to fail but can be replaced with an aftermarket unit that is a lot better than stock. Oil in the intake is not somthing I am aware off, maybe Z28Pete will know.

 

Thanks for the replies...

Yes, regarding "oil in the intake," maybe I misunderstood a reading somewhere during my search. I just basically want to be somewhat prepared when taken on a new project.

 

Just don't overdo the boost, this engine has a pretty high compression and you dont want to ecourage detonation, The LT1 engine is notorious for leaking oil between the rear of the intake manifold and the engine block. this is usually a minor leak, but looks bad. The oil seeps down on top of the bellhousing and drips out the bottom, making people think they have a bad rear crankshaft seal. The fix is to remove the intake manifold and replace all gaskets, there is no gasket at the rear where the leak occurs, instead of a gasket GM used a special black silicon sealer. If the sealer is not applied properly it will leak.

The procedure that seems to work for me is:
1) Clean all oil from buth the engine block and manifold mating surfaces, use a good stripper such as choke cleaner or brake parts cleaner. You want it so clean that it is ready to rust.
2) Clean the gasket surfaces, and set the gaskets in place on the intake ports.
3) Apply a bead of GM sealer on both mating surfaces at the rear of the manifold and engine block.
4) Allow the sealer to set for 10-20 minutes
5) Install the manifold by dropping straight in, avoid moving it around so that the silicone beads are not disturbed. You may want to put in some temporary guide studs.
6) Torque the manifold down to spec using the diagram on the FSM. The FSM does not call for it , but it works best to do it in 2 or 3 steps

 

I hope that if I visit this site for long enough that someday I'll actually be able to understand everything you just said... D:

 

The LT1 has either 10.3:1 or 10.5:1 compression, which is pretty high. If you do decide to go with forced induction, run no more than about 6lbs of boost. Some people will tell you that 8lbs of boost is safe, and it is, but only if you have an intercooler.

Also, if you do go with a supercharger, go with ATI. They are hands down, the best. If you go with forced induction, I would highly recommend going with forged internals. It never hurts to do things right the first time.

When you look, just look for intake manifold leaks (feel behind the plenum area), make sure the transmission shifts smoothly, there is no "clunk" coming from the rear when accelerating or turning corners at slow speeds, and make sure throughout the rev range there isn't a stumble present, as the stumble could be a sign of a dying optispark, which is not only an expensive part, but can be nearly $1,000 to have replaced by a competent shop.

LT1s are very sturdy motors, and will last a long time when cared for.