finally got it in before work today, well it started right up!

now it sounded awsome but after about 2 minutes the tapping in the top end came back. it has had the tapping since i got the car but it was gone when i started it. the car sat for about 3 years until i bought it and got it running and sat another 6 months in my yard until i got it started today. its passenger side 2nd cylinder back, im going to remove the valve cover tomorrow if i have time and see if anything looks wrong in there....

 

Great you got it running man!!Could just be a valve tick have you tried adjusting the lash?and if it sit for that long id say run some trany fluid thru it it will clean out the valve train very well just an old trick.

 

run trany fluid through were? trany fluid and engine do not mix well, different kinds of oil. op what is the oil pressure? what kind of oil did u use? 5w30? 10w30? what oil filter?

 

no trany fluid thru the engine is an old trick it cleans up the valve train also transmission fluid is a very high detergent oil, and by adding some (such as a half of a quart) to the engine oil will clean sticking lifters, and make an engine run better it works very well i use it to clean gunk out only a bit though not a full oil pan just for example car takes 3.5 quarts to be full put 3 quarts of oil in it and .5 of trany fluid it works wonders drive it for about 150-250 miles and do a full oil change.... im telling you belive what you want its an old trick and works better than any of this off the shelf stuff and its cheaper.

 

ive tried something like that once. it losened everything up in the motor and it did not last long. just switching form non detergent oil to detergent oil can do the same thing. most all oil now is detergent and is called for by the factorys but if u read some of the manuals for the little motors like a honda pump, they call for non detergent oil. it allows for build up over time on motor parts compensating for wear. at least thats how i figure it. lol

 

Well thats why i said change it after 150-250 and do your regular oil change its worked for me cleaning out the topend very very well on anythings from 5.0s,6cyls,hondas etc just figured id help him out on an easy fix after he does valve lash he could try this and it could work for him or vise versa do the trany fluid trick and then do the valve lash.

 

actually i was talking to an old guy at my work and he said the same thing about trans in the motor, i might give it a try. looks like i have until tuesday until i have another day off so im going to start my shopping list now. but thanks i completely forgot about doing that little trick.

 

again trany fluid is not ment for the motor and u can do as u please. i will say that auto industry researchers use the stuff to increase wear to test wear patterns.
heres a quote from a rep.

(The problem with "Shade Tree Mechanic" tricks and QUICK FIX (i.e. abrasive cleaners and flushes) is that the 10 or 15 minute flush products are thin solvents that may loosen big hunks of crud ... but not fully dissolve them. If these loose bits of crud then move around and plug an oil passage, you get the priviledge of writing checks to fix your engine ... you may not notice the negative effects immediately ... but you will eventually)

there are engine flush products that are made for what u are wanting to do. again u can do what u please and it may work for u for the short term.

 

That above quote was given by an Amsoil dealer, I know where you got that from!
Yes, trans fluid in the oil is an old school anti-sludge trick. And I'd hafta say that back when that technique was more popular, the motor oils we had weren't nearly as detergent as they are now (or not detergent at all), plus the snake-oil aftermarket wasn't flooded like it is now either. Some things never die I guess. Even though a little trans fluid in the oil isn't going to hurt, there are products on the market that you can use to loosen built up sludge.
DO NOT use the solvent (quick flush) stuff that craby was referring to though. That could break stuff free too quickly and cause oiling problems. You want to loosen crud up GRADUALLY so that the broken down sludge can assimilate with the oil and not cause clogged oil passages, etc.

 

im %100 new to v8 motors, i have torn down and rebuilt my old car 2.4 dohc motor and was able to do cams lifters etc, but that was a completely different design. i took the valve covers off and it was actually very clean. everything seemed ok to me in there. only thing with the valve covers off and motor running shouldnt oil be spewing all over???? i know in my 2.4T neon oil was all over if i did that, the driver side had a steady slight flow from all the rockers but one, and the passenger side basically the same....how hard is it ro remove the intake manifold? the lifters should pretty much be under that right? oh and y oil psi i think was 40, it was exactly 1/2 up in the middle on the cluster gauge.