I just got a '97 z28 about a week ago. When I got it, it would start, but the battery sounded kinda dead. But once I get it started, the car runs IMMACULATE, no problems what so ever! The guy told me it needed a higher cold crank battery and it would start right up. So I bought an 875 cold crank battery and no fix.

Up until last night, it would start. Sometimes the engine would turn over, but wouldn't fire for about 3-5 seconds. Usually would have to pull the key back and try again which usually lead to the engine starting right up. Now the car doesn't even want to turn over. It just makes a clicking sound. It did this the other morning, so we threw my buddies jumper cables on it and within a few seconds, started right up. Ran fine, still same starting issues, but now I'm back to the clicking sound.

The motor was just rebuilt a few thousand miles ago so I took it to the guy who rebuilt it and turns out he use to own this car. He told me that it's the optispark (distributor). The SES light is on and we pulled the code. It says crank positioning sensor which the guy said is related to the optispark?

WHAT DO I DO? I'm dead broke right now, but have to have the car running so I can get to work. I would check the wire from the positive terminal to the starter, but I'm scared to death of going under cars, don't ask why. Also, the security light under the SES is constantly on, do you think I may have a bad key? I NEED HELP PLEASE!!!

 

If it was the optispark, you should be getting a low or high resolution pulse signal error code. The 1996 & 97's have a separate crank positioning sensor that's not part of the opti, but that doesn't explain the no crank problem. I would check all your battery connections, especially at the starter. Also make sure you have a good battery to engine ground, and a good engine to frame ground. And check the harness to the crank sensor. Since the engine was r&r'd, something may have gotten missed.

 

Thanks man, I'll do that when my moms fiance gets home... he's way more mechanically inclined than I am. I'll let you know what I find

 

It could be inside the distribitor,A friend of mine of had this problem with his 1996 and it was inside the distribitor.Can't get the parts seperately and have buy the whole distribitor if it is this.

 

You mentioned that the security light is always on. That would be a good reason why occasionally nothing happens when you insert & turn the key. Try a spare key and spray contact cleaner inthe lock.

The crank sensor in this engine is only there to detect misfires, it is not used to actually produce clocking signals for the engine and is not used to control how the engine runs.

 

Ehhh, I missed the security light mention. I think I stopped reading the last paragraph after the scared to death part! The security sure would explain why the engine doesn't want to turn over. Probably not a battery connection issue then.

 

what about the clicking noise? just to be sure get the wire brush out and pull the battery cables off and wire brush the heck outa them, then do the battery terminals. sometimes the lead will get a coating of something on it that wont let it get a good connection. then find the power juction box. little red plastic box on the passenger fenderwell by the battery. take the wires lose and wire brush the ends, also have a look at the bolt and nut for any corrosion, if its lookin sad clean it as best you can. it may very well be the vats system but cleanin the cables dont cost nothin and its a good idea to clean em once in a while anyways.

 

It's the starter guys... the solenoid is completely fried. We jacked up the car and would move the solenoid around all over the place. We moved it around and my car started right up. Just dropped it off to replace the starter, should have it back by lunch tomorrow.

Still doesn't explain why my security light is on... and I know the alarm works cause it went off the other day at work while it was raining. And if my SES light has something to do with a misfire, could 1 or some of my cylinders not be running?

 

Well, you could do the supreme sacrifice and get it scanned. The code will tell you why the SES lite is on. Otherwise you could take a SWAG and throw parts at it, and still may not fix the problem.

 

the clicking does sound like the starter but i dont think that will put the ses light on but im not sure if the key wasnt working right it wouldnt even click my 63 would click for a while and then eventually it would start right up had to put a starter in about every 6 or so months it had no heat sheild