LS Series Tech 1998-2002

V6 engine and suspension and trany swap question

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  #1  
Old 05-17-2007 | 12:41 AM
javione's Avatar
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Default V6 engine and suspension and trany swap question

I want a 4th Gen Camaro. Preferably 1998-2002. I will put new SS hood. I want to get a 408 stroker and a transmission. I want to put a new suspention. Racing seats and roll cage and all that I need to make this work. It will take a while but I want a nice mean car. Question is. Should I save money and buy a V6 since Im going to put a new engine and electrical and tranny and suspension and all? Or is it still bettetr to buy a V8? After all, all the parts on it are going to be swapped for performance parts. I would be getting a new 12 bolt Mosier rear end and new axels and all also. Any help and comments are greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 05-21-2007 | 02:08 PM
AlfredB18's Avatar
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Default RE: V6 engine and suspension and trany swap question

Get the factory v8 car to start with.

Why bother with having to swap in v8 mounts, tranny, radiator, et al, when you don't have to?
 
  #3  
Old 05-21-2007 | 10:14 PM
javione's Avatar
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Default RE: V6 engine and suspension and trany swap question

Gotcha Bro. So I can use the same z28 tranny, mounts, ect, on a 408 stroker? Will I still need to get a new rear end (12bolt Mosier) or is the stock one capable of handling the power? I would like to run anywhere from 450 to 500 at the wheels with a shot of NOS just incase I might need it.
 
  #4  
Old 05-21-2007 | 10:17 PM
badinfluenceRS's Avatar
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Default RE: V6 engine and suspension and trany swap question

built trans and upgraded rear-end will be needed

buy a V8 car (Z28 bc SS are overpriced)
 
  #5  
Old 09-20-2007 | 01:12 AM
chrismorales75's Avatar
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Default RE: V6 engine and suspension and trany swap question

I'd get a 9" or the the strange S60 rear end. To make this a serious racer, you'll need front and rear springs, 275lb front, 150 rear, adjustable shocks, get the hal or qa1 "r" shock it is a drag type shock with adjustments on the going up side, fixed firm going down or double adjustable if you like spending money =) An ajustable shock in the rear or C/E 3 way drag shocks, lower control arms, relocation brackets, torque arm, sub frames, have them cut the floor and run them through the floor vs under the bottom this way stiffens the chassis more, anti roll bar, panhard rod (adjustable) if you plan to use this as a drag car, you'll want to narrow the rear end 2-3" per side, then get the right offset and later you can run a larger tire and mini tub it and you'll already have the rear end narrowed. I am getting mine narrowed 3" per side and running a 15x10 with 5" back space and doing a mini tub with 36" tubs so I can run a 315 60 15 drag radial. Get a 3 1/2 or 4" aluminum drive shaft with 1350 u joints. K-members are a good plan with a manual rack and manual brakes, lower and up tubular control arms will take a lot of weight off the car, if it is a race only take out the old a/c box and heater ducting under the dash. you can also take out the carpet and strip off the sound deadening, and cushin crap on the bottom of the carpet then put the carpet back, take out the window washer fluid bottle, front brakes so you can run a 15" rim without spacer. if you'll have the roll cage you can cut out the side impact beams on the doors. Have the cage tied into the sub frames, don't mount it to the floor with plates. You can mount the battery in the rear spare tire compartment, or a 10 pound nitrous bottle and still fit the factory panels to cover it. A c-moly cage will have a higher resale value than mild still and will weigh less, plus tig welded stuff looks better. That's about all I can think of for now, long day at work and in the garage tonight, good luck.
 
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