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Ls1 Intakes / F.A.S.T Intakes

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Old 11-26-2009, 03:51 PM
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Default Ls1 Intakes / F.A.S.T Intakes

Hey, I notice allot of guys put on the LS6 Intakes on their 2000 and down camaro's. I have an 01 SS already with the LS6 on it but I was looking at F.A.S.T for their intakes and they seem impressive. I'm sure depending on the mods you have done will matter but they seem like a logical choice. Are they better then the LS6 intake? I welcome all opinions on this.
 
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Old 11-27-2009, 03:19 AM
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FAST are a little better, there is a quote on some sales site that they produce 20 more rwhp over the LS6, on a car that had exhaust mods and a lunatic cam with AFR heads.

If you have supporting mods, ie cam, heads, slp/k&n intake, exhaust etc.. then it would be worth the buy over and ls6. However for the cash like $700+ I think then i would spend the money elsewhere, ie rear end, trans, suspension!!
 
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:50 PM
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What is the number one suspenstion mod that you recommend? I plan on building some big power out of it. What about the rear end? I do want to drive it on the highway and get some decent milage out of it. Keep it stock?
 
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:18 AM
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The FAST Intake is slightly better than the LS6 Intake, they are both a good improvement over the 98-00 LS1 Intake. I don't think you will see 20+ hp by switching from the LS6 to the Fast. They last dyno I saw, someone got 24rwhp by switching from the old LS1 intake to the LS6 intake. The Fast may be worth 10hp or so over the ls6 but I don't think that's worth $800. You would be better off swapping cams for that much money.


As for your suspension question it depends what your setting your car up to do. If your looking at Drag racing then I would suggest, Torque Arm and Sub frame connectors as a must. There are several other suspension mods you can do as well.
 
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:56 AM
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I just meant do something else for the cash, as stig says a cam is best bet, and with the ls6 on already you'll see better gains than i would with just my ls1 intake.

Wat mods do you have already or is it stock?? there is a good sticky by specter about the mods route, ie bolt-ons, slp lid, filter, exhaust, long tubes etc for power

I can only recommend what i have so far, before the suspension i ran 13.6-13.7 quarters, now its down to 13.2 and i have shocks and springs etc ( in my sig) but also the car handles awesome now, much better than stock.

Currently im having issues with what to do next cause i have an auto and they are good boxes but not designed for much more power, ie if i get a cam and heads which is my plan, i dont know how long the box will last, then theres the diff.

I think im gonna get a cam, then rebuild the auto box ( when i have cash) then possibly get a new rear, but not until mine spills its guts
 
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:40 PM
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Well, I just picked up the car so right now it's bone stock. For what I want out of the car, I think suspension and brakes would be a good idea. I have saved for about a year and a half and I'm not sure the route I want to take in terms of what will be the best bang for the buck. I haven't total up all costs yet to make an LS1 monster but all the mods I want could add up to the same as putting a 7.0L 427 long block package that is professionaly built with the big intake, ignition, ported oil pump, big injectors, cam, forged internals, ported throttlebody, and not to mention the ported L92 Heads. I put a post up asking about Katech out of the states that is offering this monster. Some would argue that it is more fun building up the LS1 but for the cost and power I want, I think this route would be awesome too. I'm still going to do the work anyway. I also do realize that there is alot involved in a major engine swap, but I'm looking to do most of this all at once over the winter. I would love to read opinions about this motor. Check it out. http://store.katechengines.com/share...t=products.asp
 
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:53 PM
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Thanks very much for the tips. I have been doing alot of research and I will be doing all the little things as well like true duels, Dynomax UltraFlo,headwork, LT headers, mod my ram air and throttle body, cam, etc. All that stuff is a definate, I'm looking more to the advanced stuff that puts you well into the 500+ hp. with out supercharger or turbos. I have nothing against them but I like the power and torque of just motor for now. I may change my mind on that one.
 
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Old 11-29-2009, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by fbodyhemi69
Thanks very much for the tips. I have been doing alot of research and I will be doing all the little things as well like true duels, Dynomax UltraFlo,headwork, LT headers, mod my ram air and throttle body, cam, etc. All that stuff is a definate, I'm looking more to the advanced stuff that puts you well into the 500+ hp. with out supercharger or turbos. I have nothing against them but I like the power and torque of just motor for now. I may change my mind on that one.
Many people have hit 500+ rwhp in an LS1. If you pick out the right packages, full bolt ons with heads & cam can give you 500+ rwhp. The other thing to keep in mind is the drive train. Its pretty easy to build a high HP motor these days but you need to be able to put it to the ground. If you have a 6-spd your tranny should be okay, but you rear end will break and so will you trans mount. If its not already broken (I broke mine with near stock power in an auto.)

If you have a 4L60 then your transmission will probably not last with 500+ HP, but it should sacrifice itself before your rear end brakes.

I would not recomend dropping in a new engine just to hit 500+ hp. Some guys were hitting 700+ HP N/A on LS1 Blocks in the 1990's. There are many ways to do it for a lot less than swapping engines.
 
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Old 11-30-2009, 12:27 AM
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Well the LS1 is a fine motor and I have no problem building that up with all the mods, but are you saying that you can get 500+ hp with out stroking the motor and forged internals for under 12 grand drive train not included? I do know that stroking the motor is a pretty big cost with crank, heads,cam,etc.
My car is an auto right now with the stock rearend and if I want to be up in that range of hp, I will do the proper mods to the rear end and trans. At what hp mark should you be thinking forged internals?
 
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:54 AM
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Would you be doing the labour yourdself is the majr question of cash:

New stage 5 rpm autobox is $2300 + or something ( or you could get parks elsewhere and build it for $800)

New 12 bolt or 9 inch ( people say 12s are better for autos?? dunno why) ~$2100+ cost, and put it in yourself

Heads and cam and roller rocker ~$2200, including proted ls6 oir pump, new timing chain, lifters, pushrods, head bolts.

Slp intake and k&n - $150

LTs from $200 up ( ebays generics)

TSP true off road true duals ~$500 i think??

Yanks Stall ~ $700+

Suspension ~$1000 - 2000 depending on what you get

Stroker kits $1500 upwards, dont know if these are forged or not

In sure this would be cheaper than just the motor and will set you at 500 rwhp is. Remeber if your going to stroke it, do it before the cam and the cam should be selected for the displacement and all other mods already on.

I know of people who run a turbo at 7-9 psi on stock internals and push out about 500 rwhp, this is the limit. Just dont rev it past 6500 rpms
 


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