LS Series Tech 1998-2002

Delayed starting

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  #1  
Old 04-27-2014, 11:05 PM
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Default Delayed starting

Hey all, I have a manual '02 Z28, and for some reason, every morning when I go to leave for work, there is a loooooong delay in the car starting. She doesn't do it when she's warm, but I'll get in the car, depress the clutch, and turn the key and nothing will happen for 10-15 seconds, AND THEN the starter motor suddenly will kick in and she'll turn over.

I can't imagine this delay is supposed to be there, has anyone else experienced this, and possibly, point me in the right direction?
 
  #2  
Old 04-28-2014, 04:48 PM
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This could be one of several things.

1: Make sure the Security light in the instrument cluster goes out a few seconds after switching on the ignition. If it flashes constantly, that indicates a problem reading the key's resistance code.

2: Try swapping the STARTER relay in one of the under-hood fuse/relay boxes with the IGN relay next to it. Swapping it with a FAN relay in the other box is ok too. If that relay is the problem, the starter may work immediately but the car may not start for a while.
 
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:48 PM
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It didn't flash this morning. When I turned the key to the 'start' position, the only lights illuminated were 'check gauges' 'brake' and 'check engine'. She sat for 20 some odd seconds (really need to count how long it takes) before she started cranking.

So I don't think it's a VATS issue (though I was planning on taking it to a dealership to get a new set of keys made anyway) but I'll try swapping those relays and see what comes of it.
 
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:29 AM
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Start with the basics. Have both the battery and starter tested. Narrow it down from there. Check all the cable wiring while you're at it.
 
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:25 PM
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Here's a question. Could it be fuel related? Like something the computer or a switch that doesn't allow the starter to crank until it reaches a certain fuel pressure?
 
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:18 AM
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No fuel related.
Swap out relay first - simple test.
Since manual trans, is clutch safety switch properly adjusted with clutch pedal?
 
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by HappySalesman
Here's a question. Could it be fuel related? Like something the computer or a switch that doesn't allow the starter to crank until it reaches a certain fuel pressure?
As Everett said, There is no fuel pressure sensor. It would be nice if there was. We could just hook up a scan tool and check fuel pressure.
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:57 PM
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Alright, well I'll see about testing leads and such this weekend. Did have another couple questions (thanks for being so patient with me)

1. I noticed that the radio does not turn off when I turn the key to 'start'. As far as I know it is a stock radio (Monsoon) and nobody has ever had the dash apart to mess with the wiring. I was under the impression that the radio, along with the other accessories are supposed to shut off during crank?

2. If the VATS module itself was going bad (not just the contacts in the ignition cylinder) would the security light still light if it was immobilizing the starter?

Thanks again guys
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:03 AM
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try the relay, then try pumping clutch while holding key in start position to see if start enable is failing. next would be to clean the connections at the starter and battery. could be bad connection is heating up and makes contact after it heats to a point. yes it could be a bad starter switch, same thing, heats till it makes contact.
 
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Old 05-10-2014, 03:50 PM
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Alright, was finally able to start testing. Number one, its not the relay, tested both stsrter and ignition, they work fine. Hooked up a remote start to the starter, spins with no delay.

Here's the weird part. So to narrow down the issue we disconnected the solenoid wire going to the starter and attached it to a test light, which was then grounded to the k-member. Jumpered pins 30 and 87 at the relay, got a good solid light. Reconnected the solenoid wire, attached a volt meter to it and the negative battery terminal, jumped the pins, got no voltage. After a few more tests we tried jumping the pins again and we suddenly got voltage and crank.

I cleaned both battery and solenoid cables (and studs) at the starter, battery connections are good, so... im thinking the connection at the fuse box? Im hoping this isnt damage to the wire in between the box and starter.

Oh, did a voltage test, and the neutral switch works exactly as it should.

Any other ideas? If it is the wire, am I totally screwed?
 


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