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  #11  
Old 07-26-2007, 07:01 PM
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Default RE: will not start

The distributor should make spark regardless of timing.
 
  #12  
Old 07-26-2007, 09:31 PM
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Default RE: will not start

thats exactly what i thought. im getting 100% no spark. so what should i go to next?
 
  #13  
Old 07-26-2007, 09:48 PM
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Default RE: will not start

Check the coil and make sure it is getting power from the ignition switch, Pink wire. Check the connector and wires from distributor to ECM. Bad ignition module= no spark, bad pickup coil= no spark.
 
  #14  
Old 07-28-2007, 02:10 PM
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Default RE: will not start

when the problem first occured, i checked the coil with a multimeter, and the numbers did a lot of jumping around. does that mean its bad. if i remember right its supposed to stay around 900 ohms.. dont quote me...
 
  #15  
Old 08-01-2007, 11:02 PM
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Default RE: will not start

ok, got it up and running. it was the coil. but now im faced with a new problem. Piston pin slap. what exactly is it. an how do i get rid of it?
 
  #16  
Old 08-02-2007, 02:18 AM
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Default RE: will not start

i was also thinking. ive read up on piston slap and i now know that it is the horizontal or perpendicular motion of the cylinder inside the bore. not a good thing if it goes on too long. and that one of the ways to fix it is to rebuild it. well i was thinking. seeing as how i wont be the one to rebuild it. would it be good to have the engine bored out a little more as well and (what i assume comes with boreing and engine out) using larger piston heads. whats a ballpark figure for how much it would cost to bore out an engine. something typical.
 
  #17  
Old 08-02-2007, 03:43 AM
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Default RE: will not start

well most shops, not the dealership ones, charge around $75 per hour it all depends in the area where you live, a rebuild is usually around a grand so im sure it might be a few hundred more it all depends on how much work needs to get done and what you plan to bore it out too, it would be cheaper when you do get it done is to get all the parts yourself otherwise they will screw you bad
 
  #18  
Old 08-02-2007, 10:23 AM
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Default RE: will not start

theres a rebuild kit on summitracing with pistons included for about 300. do you think those are any good. does brand matter? what is an ideal size that people normally bore out on a 305? and im assuming that when you bore out an engine it has to be torn down, with that in mind; with the same place that bores it out traditionally be the place that installs the rebuild kit?
 
  #19  
Old 08-03-2007, 10:57 AM
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Default RE: will not start

alright, im starting to get beside myself and theink differently about what i can do. im still going to price out how much it would cost to bore out and rebuild this engine i have. and if its more expensive than say.. 1500 bucks i will go with a crate engine and scrap the one in the car. Theres a 350 ci 260 hp crate engine on jegs. for 1479.99 which is perfect, because i can still build it up from there, i know 260 isnt the cap for a 350 lol. its actually looking to be the better route to go as i type this up.

Specs for the crate. [*]4 bolt main with 2 piece rear main seal[*]Cast iron crankshaft[*]LT1/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods[*]Cast pistons (dished)[*]Hydraulic flat tappet cam, (.383'/.401') and a 112° lobe separation[*]Cast iron cylinder heads with 76cc chambers[*]8.5:1 compression ratio[*]Left and right hand dipstick[*]4 quart oil pan[*]Timing tabs for a 6-3/4' or an 8' balancer[*]Recommended spark plug- Accel 111-574 or any spark plug with 14mm, .460' reach, 5/8' hex, tapered seat, projected tip[*]GM recommends the use of an melonized distributor gear (270-11951-1)
now, ive never bought anything that big before. so, what does it normally cost to ship an engine from jegs, and how long does it take.

also how many of my parts can i transfer over to this engine. my exhaust manifolds, intake manifold and carb, im keeping all emissions equipment as we may have those laws here in virginia soon i hear.

also if i buy this engine will it come with information on what i will need to do before install?

if theres anything you can say about all this please do, and if you can add anything it would be greatly appreciated as well.
 
  #20  
Old 08-06-2007, 01:47 AM
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Default RE: will not start

ok, just an update. i have been working on this car the past few days now, and i have accomplished alot. no more knock, and no more noise... mostly. the problem is so simple makes me wanna kick myself. the valve lash was off for the each valve, be it too tight or not tight enough. fixing that, fixed the knock. the "piston slap" was just the rocker arms being lose. so ill be wrapping up this segment tomorrow. im just happy its all getting fixed. havent been able to really drive it for about a month and a half. replacing the struts next.
thanks for all your help. i will keep you posted.
 


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