I am looking for a chemical solution to disolve the RUST on bolts, small fasteners and other small parts for my restoration project. I've used naval jelly to some satisfaction but it seems to be to thick for use on very small parts and is very slow. What say ya?? hipirn

 

You are looking for evaporust. It does not use acid. It remove the oxygen from the rust leaving iron dust in the bottom of the container. I bought one of the small Harbor freight partscleaners and 3 gallon of the stuff. It works great. I do leave the parts in longer then manufacture says.

http://www.evaporust.com/

I don't know if you know about eastwood.com. They have just about every thing for restorations atresonable prices. Here is there version.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...roductID=11122

I was able to find evaporust 10 bucks less per gallon localy.

 

Gorn; Thanks for the post on rust busters... hipirn

 

have you ever tried the famouse wd-40?

 

If you're wanting an aerosol type I suggest PB Blaster, or better yet Aerocroil over WD-40.

 

I used to use the Sherwin Wiliams "Dual etch". The SW automotive refinishes stoores would carry it. Its an acid but works well. I also cleaned many motorcycle fuel tanks with it that were rusted very bad inside.

 

Years ago while in the auto body repair business I recall using an acid etch on new metal panels that were starting to develope light rust to prepare them for top coating, I believe it required a water bath to neutralize. Don't remember what the product was and never thought about it's use for my rusty fastener issue.. Anybody have any bad experience with the Evaporust product?
I did try a vibratory cleaner with various media that I used for cleaning cartridge cases, that didn't work, apparently there is media made specifically for that kind of rust removal on small parts, it looks expensive though! hipirn

 

Rust Class 101
To use any type of abrasive you had to cut way past the visual rust. The roots of the rust go down in the grain of the metal.The reason acid works so well is because ferrous oxide is very weak compared to steel or iron. The only problem isstrong acids need to be neutralizewith either soap/water or baking soda/water. The weak acids just dry away like thinner. AKA acid etch primer.

To stop rust from returning you can:
Grind it (thismay require you to remove good material with the bad)
Acid Burn (this will cost you some good material but not much)
Convert it (this process would convert the rust to Black oxide, Black oxide is chemically close to rust but does not grow)
Chemically break down(see above evaporust)
Seal out oxygen (Rust needs oxygen to grow.This is your Por-15 or the Eastwood's Encapsulator)

My least favorite was would be the grind. There is no way you can be sure you got it all. Second on my least favorite listis the Sealing method. If there is any moisture under your sealthat will supply the rustwith oxygen for months before the rust will stop. So for hvy metals like frames I like to convert then seal. Acid is tuff cause of the mess and the clean up. Chemical break downhas its issue. You have to be able to keepproduct wet and in contact with the rust for up to 48 hours. For me, If I can drop it in a can for a couple of days break down it is Chemical break down all the way.

Please note I do not consider WD40 or any penetrating fluid a rust remover. They just weaken the scale. They will protect the area from moisture but only for a few days.

FYI: I was a manufacturing engineer for a bearing manufacture. We refer to the summer month as the rust months. I spent a lot of time making sure our bearings did not rust.

 

Thanks again Gorn for a very informative post on rust busting. Nothing beats experience and somebody like you willing to share!! hipirn