I know many of you have had the problem of the vats box itself burning out so the resistor bypass doesn't work for you so until now most people thought the only option was either a custom tune to remove it from the PCM or a new vats box and both can be fairly pricy. However it turns out all the passkey II boxes send the exact same signal to the PCM. The only difference between cars is the signal going to the box from your key switch from the resistor which varies by key model. This got me thinking of the possibility of creating a signal generator to feed the correct signal to the PCM to completely remove the vats system from the equation using extremely cheap electronic components and a little soldering ability. The signal is invariable a 5VDC 50hz square form at 50% duty cycle. That information is readily available online with a quick google search and I was able to verify it using an oscilloscope on my 93 Z28. The components you will need are as follows: a suitable size PCB, IC555 timer with a socket if you prefer to use one, R1 is a 10 k ohm resistor, R2 is 133 k ohm resistor, C1 and C2 are 0.1 microfarad capacitors, maybe 2 feet of 20 or 22 gauge wire, whatever colors you prefer though I usually just mark my circuits on the PCB to keep it simple, and a soldering gun, solder, etc. I attached the schematics. This entire setup cost me about $6 shipped and you can find it cheaper if you don't mind longer shipping times from somewhere overseas. Your output wire will go to either the dark blue wire on the vats plug or the dark blue wire usually located on plug 1 on the PCM depending on where you want to mount it. On my PCM it was the plug with 13 wires.

 

Thanks for that

 

No prob hope it helps

 

hey can you email me that info i can't open it here ! thefuzz65@yahoo.com

 

Thanks for the post. Hope this helps out the various members with the SECURITY light on all the time!

 

I cant see the revised diagram- when I click on it , it wont let me see it-only tells me I cannot edit others posts. can you check it out please?

 

Hope this helps

 

What about the starter relay? I just got the vats module wired up and can jump the starter with a hot wire and im back up and running. Now I just need to figure out how to do away with the starter cutoff or however you want to say it. Any helpful ideas?

 

Really sorry I haven't been on in a while. If you are still having this problem, the starter relay can be bypassed completely. just remove it and connect the two larger gauge wires coming from it. It will be hot from the ignition switch just like most older cars were.