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changing a 350 to a 383

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Old 03-25-2008, 04:03 PM
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Default changing a 350 to a 383

im just wondering what i have to do to make my 350 into a 383?
 
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:23 PM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

You would have to increase the displacment by 33 cubic inchs.
 
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:34 PM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

You have to buy and install, properly, a stroker kit that adds about half an inch stroke. It requires a new crank, rods, and generally on an older engine, you replace the pistons, too. You obviously have to replace all the main and rod bearings, etc, and it is as major a teardown and rebuild of the engine as you can do.
Sometimes light machineing or grinding is required on the block to make the new crank clear theblock web castings, etc. If you are rebuilding a cast iron block you can bore the cylinders 30 to 50 thousandths over and put in oversize pistons and pick up an extra 5 to 10 cubes on top of the 383 the stroker gives you. I've seen 395 cubes that way. Cost for parts and machining and assembly, done right, is about $2000-$4000 for a short block, maybe only about half that if you do all the labor yourself.
 
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:41 PM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

thanks for the advise. now all i need to do is same up some green and ill be on my way. hahaha
 
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Old 03-26-2008, 05:42 AM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

All joking a side if you have to ask how to do it. This is your best way to do it.

http://www.jegs.com/p/GM+Performance...10002/-1/10763

Its a complete long block ready to bolt in.
 
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Old 03-26-2008, 11:12 AM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

In the old days you took a 400 crank (3.75 inch stroke vrs the 3.48)turned down the mains ran the 5.7 rods. Today there are rotating assembly kits that are cheaper than going through all that. One thing to pay attention to is if the assembly is internally balanced or externally ballanced. If you go externally you need to use 400 flexplate and balancer.
 
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Old 03-26-2008, 07:58 PM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

And there are a host of other things to keep track of. You have to think about the heads: the combustion chambers were sized for their correct compresson ratio at a stock displacement: you've just increased that by 10% --> 10% more compression ratio. This may be too much. And you really need ported heads and a cam to breath better to make maximum use of the increased displacement -- it goes on and on.

Do a lot of reserach before you go into something like this. It can be a lot of fun but only if you have a fairly good idea of what you are doing.
 
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:35 PM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

I guess I had a bad week with people who talk a good game and then have no clue what they are doing. You guys really expect someone that did not know how to make a 350 into a 383 last week to attemp not only a rebuild but an internal engine mod? I have known guys that where paid mechanic I would not trust to do this, I have even seen machine shops screw this up. I have done so many side jobs that where I wasrepairinga botched rebuild. Not all where the persons fault sometimes the machine shop screwed up and they did not know enough to see it. Sometimes they just pick the wrong parts and the parts guys are clueless or worse they think they know.

History:
I had a good friend that talked a good game and he had a friend that said he built dozens of motors. I didn't have time to help because it was during race season. He brough the car over all happy cause it ran so great. 10 PSI of oil pressure at idle with a high volume oil pump,,, The engine isnot even broke in yet.Long story shory some how they managed to get .002 oversize mains bearings onunturned crank. Plastic gaged about .004"My friend even told me his other friend said he need themlike that because the crank was worn. I was like WTF??? then it hit me he wanted undersize bearings. Good thing he got the wrong ones as it stands it was an easy fix. Had he got the undersize bearing he would havedestroyed the crank which only had about .0015 of out of round it was only undersize in spots.
 
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:54 PM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

ORIGINAL: GRIFF

In the old days you took a 400 crank (3.75 inch stroke vrs the 3.48)turned down the mains ran the 5.7 rods. Today there are rotating assembly kits that are cheaper than going through all that. One thing to pay attention to is if the assembly is internally balanced or externally ballanced. If you go externally you need to use 400 flexplate and balancer.
exactly, the rotating kits basically have the 400 crank that are specifically made for a 383 with the mains turned down to fit the 350 block.

if you choose to use the 400 crank and have the mains machined to fit the 350 you can use the 5.7" rods from the 350 or the 6" rods from the 400 but they both would require a shorter piston. the rods usually need machined thinner to clear some cams and the block usually needs machining or grinding aswell to clear the stroke. the rotating assembly kits come with either 5.7 or 6" rods and shorter pistons that clear
 
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:17 AM
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Default RE: changing a 350 to a 383

i may not know what im really doing but my dad knows alot about this stuff. i thought i'd just ask other ppl what they did.
 


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