I need a little help with the GF's car. Got the codes read. the main problem is a P0341 camshaft position sensor error.

It is having problems starting intermittantly. It cranks hard, has plenty of power, but just no fire. we leave it sit for a bit and come back and it will start right up. Now, I think its a faulty camshaft position sensor. no auto parts store carries them and the dealer told us there is no camshaft position sensor on this car (but the code clearly read.... anyway...) so were do i go from here? the way it doesnt start makes me think whatever sensor sends cam or crank position to the ignition isnt working right, so where do these cars get their ignition information? is the dealer full of it? why would the code read out camshaft position sensor if there isnt one?

thanks guys

 

found this.

P0340/P0341 Troubleshooting S-Series
Most of this came from TSB 98-T-49A, with a few of tips thrown in.

Both P0340 and P0341 both relate to the Camshaft Position Sensor (Let's just call it Cam Sensor from now on), the only problem is that the S-Series engines don't have a Cam Sensor, not a typical one at least. Instead, the DIS module watches when the #4 spark plug fires on the compression cycle and fakes a Cam sensor signal from it. The tricky part is that on a DIS waste spark system, spark plugs fire with their mated cylinders(1/4 and 2/3 in 4 cylinder engines) every time the cylinder is at TDC, regardless of whether the cylinder is on exhaust or compression. However, it takes far more voltage to fire a spark plug on the compression stroke then on the exhaust stroke, due to the compressed air (the more air molecules, the more air the spark needs to jump, hence more resistance to spark). The increased voltage needed on the compression stroke is detected by the "#4 sensing circuit" inside the DIS module for the Cam Sensor signal. If the resistance of the secondary system is not in the proper range or something else is affecting the voltage draw, the "#4 sensing circuit" will be unable to work properly.

In short, anything wrong with the ignition system and you have a bad Cam Sensor signal.

Next for the diagnostics, I'm converting this from a graphic map to a text format, so bear with me...

Step 1: remove secondary wires from spark plugs; keep the wires on the coil. Measure resistance from #1 wire to #4 wire and then #2 wire to #3 wire. Resistance should be 11k ohms to 45k ohms(YIKES that's a wide range)

If resistance is in spec, go to step 2, if not in specs, go to step 3

Step 2: remove secondary wires from the coil packs and check for corrosion on the towers and wires.

If there is corrosion, go to step 4

if not, go to step 5

Step 3: remove secondary wires from the coil packs and check for corrosion on the towers and wires.

If there is corrosion, go to step 4

if not, go to step 6

Step 4: Replace or clean coils and/or wires as necessary. Retest to confirm.


Step 5: Remove spark plugs. Check for carbon or abnormal wear and proper gap (0.040 in)

If plugs check out good, go to step 8.

If the plugs are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm.

Step 6: Measure resistance of individual secondary wires. specs are 1.5k ohms to 15k ohms (that's what this chart says, but my knowledge says 8k ohms is normal, greater than 12k ohms should be replaced)

If wires are in spec, go to step 7

If wires are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm

Step 7: Measure resistance from tower to tower on the coil packs (hold tight for good reading). Spec is 8K to 15K.

If coils are in spec, go back up to step 5

If coils are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm

Step 890% of the time I'll bet the problem is solved by now) Start engine. Perform under hood visual inspection of the ignition system, check for arcing (best done in a dark area, if you are inside a garage, be sure the exhaust is vented). Wet DIS module, coils, and secondary wires with salt water to provide optional ground path (arcing from the wire boot to the valve cover is possible, but would be hidden)

If arcing is present, replace wires or coils as needed and retest to confirm.

If not, go to step 9.

Step 9: Turn ignition off, back probe J3D03 (Circuit 633, brn/wht wire) at PCM with voltmeter. Connect other lead to ground. Turn ignition on, engine off and measure voltage.

less then 4.5 volts, go to step 10
4.5-5.5 volts, go to step 12
more then 5.5 volts, go to step 11


Step 10. Check connections in circuit 633, repair short to ground, retest to confirm


Step 11. Repair short to voltage in circuit 633, retest to confirm.


Step 12. Start engine, and observe voltmeter at idle

less then 2.0 volts, replace DIS module, retest to confirm
2.0 - 4.0 volts, problem intermittent
4.0 - 5.5 volts, go to step 13
more then 5.5 volts, go back up to step 11

Step 13. Turn ignition on, back probe circuit 633 at DIS module with voltmeter, other lead to ground and check voltage.

4.0 volts or less, repair open/high resistance in circuit 633, retest to confirm.
Greater than 4.0 volts, go to step 14

Step 14: Inspect terminal on DIS module for looseness or poor connection.

If terminal is bad, repair it.
If terminal is good, replace the DIS module.

That's the entire diagnostics chart, anybody who has done this in the past feel free to throw in your tips/opinions. I would like to add three things:

1. Check the grounding bolt on the DIS module for corrosion.
2. Be sure the secondary wires are fully seated, you should feel/hear a click
3. Use dielectric grease on the coil towers

 

thanks, ill give it a shot.