What's a good oil pump??
#1
What's a good oil pump??
What's a good standard pressure and volume oil pump for a daily driver/mild street performance 350? I'm basically duplicating GMPP 350 HO engine (330 HP, 380 FT. LBS. of torque). I want a good quality oil pump.
Thanks, NYH1!
Thanks, NYH1!
#4
Most high volume oil pumps increase oil volume by approximately 25%. Melling has THIS "High Performance" pump that increases oil volume by approximately 10%. A guy on another forum told me about it. The only problem is it has an .750" pickup inlet diameter. I'm having a hard time finding a oil pump pick up for a 7.5" deep oil pan with a .750" pickup inlet diameter.
#5
There is a lot of sense in going with a standard volume oil pump. I don't want to suck my oil pan dry. I'm only going to use a 5 quart pan (plus 1 qrt. in the filter). I've seen to many guys have problems when they used high volume pumps with stock (4 qrt) or near stock oil pans. The oil doesn't make it back to the pan/sump in time to be repumped failing to maintaining a minimum oil pressure of 10 psi. per 1,000 RPM of engine operation.
Most high volume oil pumps increase oil volume by approximately 25%. Melling has THIS "High Performance" pump that increases oil volume by approximately 10%. A guy on another forum told me about it. The only problem is it has an .750" pickup inlet diameter. I'm having a hard time finding a oil pump pick up for a 7.5" deep oil pan with a .750" pickup inlet diameter.
Most high volume oil pumps increase oil volume by approximately 25%. Melling has THIS "High Performance" pump that increases oil volume by approximately 10%. A guy on another forum told me about it. The only problem is it has an .750" pickup inlet diameter. I'm having a hard time finding a oil pump pick up for a 7.5" deep oil pan with a .750" pickup inlet diameter.
#7
Jr, I would think you don't go romping on your engine till it warms up, and the oil thins out as well. I'd be careful running it at high rpm's and slamming the car hard in a turn. For all you know, you may be running right at the recovery threshold now, and that could be enough to momentarily starve out the oil pump and turn things to toast.
#8
I'm using a high volume pump on my 427, with some mods to make it return better. I've known more than one person who used a high volume pump with a stock pan and got into trouble by running the sump dry.
When I built my engine I used GE red glyptol paint on all the interior lifter valley to make things smoother and help returning oil to the pan. I also added an extension to my sump and pickup to get almost an extra quart of oil in the system. I think just painting the valley with glyptol will help most engines return enough oil to not have an issue.
My Melling pump runs around 80 psi cold, (fast idle) but when warned up it runs around 40 psi idle, and 60 psi at 2500. No problems with returning oil, with the mods I did to the engine.
When I built my engine I used GE red glyptol paint on all the interior lifter valley to make things smoother and help returning oil to the pan. I also added an extension to my sump and pickup to get almost an extra quart of oil in the system. I think just painting the valley with glyptol will help most engines return enough oil to not have an issue.
My Melling pump runs around 80 psi cold, (fast idle) but when warned up it runs around 40 psi idle, and 60 psi at 2500. No problems with returning oil, with the mods I did to the engine.
#9
I'm using a high volume pump on my 427, with some mods to make it return better. I've known more than one person who used a high volume pump with a stock pan and got into trouble by running the sump dry.
When I built my engine I used GE red glyptol paint on all the interior lifter valley to make things smoother and help returning oil to the pan. I also added an extension to my sump and pickup to get almost an extra quart of oil in the system. I think just painting the valley with glyptol will help most engines return enough oil to not have an issue.
My Melling pump runs around 80 psi cold, (fast idle) but when warned up it runs around 40 psi idle, and 60 psi at 2500. No problems with returning oil, with the mods I did to the engine.
When I built my engine I used GE red glyptol paint on all the interior lifter valley to make things smoother and help returning oil to the pan. I also added an extension to my sump and pickup to get almost an extra quart of oil in the system. I think just painting the valley with glyptol will help most engines return enough oil to not have an issue.
My Melling pump runs around 80 psi cold, (fast idle) but when warned up it runs around 40 psi idle, and 60 psi at 2500. No problems with returning oil, with the mods I did to the engine.
#10
It can happen, in the very way NYH1 was talking about. It all depends on how fast your oil can make it back down into the pan. That's one of the reasons why a hi-perf engine with a high volume oil pump wants to have a larger capacity oil pan.
Jr, I would think you don't go romping on your engine till it warms up, and the oil thins out as well. I'd be careful running it at high rpm's and slamming the car hard in a turn. For all you know, you may be running right at the recovery threshold now, and that could be enough to momentarily starve out the oil pump and turn things to toast.
Jr, I would think you don't go romping on your engine till it warms up, and the oil thins out as well. I'd be careful running it at high rpm's and slamming the car hard in a turn. For all you know, you may be running right at the recovery threshold now, and that could be enough to momentarily starve out the oil pump and turn things to toast.
And no, I don't go romping on my car until it's fully warmed up. The 20w50 oil wasn't by choice either, I just happened to be driving the car longer than expected this winter.
I have however beat the **** out of my car on numerous occasions and again never had a pressure drop or spike.