As some of you may know, I've got some plans worked out for the top end of my lt1.

The only problem is that my engine is currently at 151000 miles, and could probably use some sprucing up of the short block.

So, What I want to know from you guys, is do you think a rebuilt/machined short block would cost more or less than a new short block. The cheapest I've found for a new, complete short block is on Ebay for 999 dollars. My dad knows a guy who'd do a .030 over-bore for me for 100 bucks, so with that info what do you think would be more cost-efficient?

Also, I've been looking here and on google for threads about rebuilding/refreshing the short block, but the only stuff I can find for it includes the top-end, and strokers. Since that's not what I'm looking for, I can't find a good list of parts I'd need to replace. If someone has a fairly complete list of parts needed for a standard short-block rebuild (given it'll end up a 355 instead of a 350) just lying around, I'd really appreciate it.

So, thanks in advance guys!

*Goes to do more research*

 

i wouldnt trust ebay when buying automotive parts.You cant really couldnt or rely on them.I would just built it yourself/take it to a machine shop.

 

Yeah, that was definitely a consideration of mine.

The only reason I'd consider this one, is that it's from a store rather than a private seller.

 

true, but still unless its a valued shop with good reccomendations id pass on it.

 

Plus this way I know what goes into it.

So besides the over-bore, new pistons/rings, potentially turning the crank, and bearings, what would you suggest?

 

well id rather get a forged rotating assembly than turning and regrinding.Id stay away from eagle if i was you and go with scat.Forged is going to be a little more expensive, but you can count on it and rely on it.Get new bearings too.

 

Oh how I wish forged was in my budget! haha

But with as cheap as the machine work for this would be, and my relatively low hp/tq/rpm goals, I feel really pretty safe without it. But trust me, if I had an extra couple grand lying around, I'd definitely have a full forged rotating assmebly already!

EDIT: I actually do plan to go fully forged, just not this year. Within the next two though. But I'd like to break into it now, since all the stuff I'm gonna be doing is just plain good for the engine. A refresh never hurt anyengine.

 

Next question:

Given a 355, I'm having some trouble finding information on correct piston/ring choices. Obviously they'll need to be larger, but it's not a regularly discussed topic here.

Could someone point me in the right direction on this one? Brands/suppliers/etc. would be great.

 

your best bet is when you get all the machine work done, measure the cylinders with a micrometer

 

That's true, especially since I don't actually know if it'll be a .030 over-bore. I might only need a .020. Or I may need to go to .040.

But I've found a couple providers, so that's good. I know where to go now!