Coorect Sytle Cam?
Is this Cam:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60104LK/
Correct for this motor:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...4&autoview=SKU
Not sure about the hydraulic stuff.
Thanks
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60104LK/
Correct for this motor:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...4&autoview=SKU
Not sure about the hydraulic stuff.
Thanks
The engine comes equipped with a hydraulic roller camshaft. Why would you want to change to a flat lifters cam which usually results in less performance and reliability?
Last edited by z28pete; Jul 15, 2010 at 11:56 AM.
Wait, you're wanting to buy a turn key roller cam crate engine and put in a flat tappet cam? You don't want to do that. For starters (without getting into all the differences), the roller lifters in the engine won't work with a flat tappet cam, and neither will the timing chain set.
Summit said that was the wrong cam. I still hate calling them.
I dont want to buy that engine. I have that engine minus the heads. I pulled my engine code and it comes back to that ZZ4 motor. But some where along the line the aluminum heads went away. Cause mine are cast.
That was why I was asking you Camaro 69.
Im not sure I understand what I really have. That cam said hydraulic, and I thought that was what mattered. Can you point me in the direction of a roller verses flat lesson? Does that mean I have to spend like $800 for a cam. That really sucks. The cam in this thing is week. I wish I new if it still had roller lifters or not.
Will you (Camaro 69) point me towards a cam. This is a race car. Will get 2.02 Aluminum heads.
I dont want to buy that engine. I have that engine minus the heads. I pulled my engine code and it comes back to that ZZ4 motor. But some where along the line the aluminum heads went away. Cause mine are cast.
That was why I was asking you Camaro 69.
Im not sure I understand what I really have. That cam said hydraulic, and I thought that was what mattered. Can you point me in the direction of a roller verses flat lesson? Does that mean I have to spend like $800 for a cam. That really sucks. The cam in this thing is week. I wish I new if it still had roller lifters or not.
Will you (Camaro 69) point me towards a cam. This is a race car. Will get 2.02 Aluminum heads.
Last edited by gfrench; Jul 15, 2010 at 04:17 PM.
Here's some information to explain the cam differences: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...nfo/index.html
I need to dig through my archives. I had a link to also explain the differences between a roller and flat tappet cam block.
The major difference of concern is where and how the snout of the cam sticks out of the block. And the roller block has a thrust plate for the cam where the flat doesn't.
I need to dig through my archives. I had a link to also explain the differences between a roller and flat tappet cam block.
The major difference of concern is where and how the snout of the cam sticks out of the block. And the roller block has a thrust plate for the cam where the flat doesn't.
So the cams are about the same in price. The issue is when you change an older cam you change the lifters. If I change a roller cam do I have to change the $500 rollers (roller lifters)?
With a worn cam/flat tappet lifter set, you do need to change lifters with the cam. If you don't, you're just asking for future trouble. Roller lifters don't create a unique wear pattern to the cam lobes like flats do, so you can reuse rollers providing they aren't shot.
Compare if you were to change the engine over to a flat tappet cam. In addition to the cam (a wash), you need:
new lifters, new push rods (roller rods are shorter), new timing chain set for a non roller (you could reuse yours with the roller cam if it doesn't have a lot of miles/wear), change the distributor gear (different hardness). So, even if you needed new roller lifters, it would be worth it to keep the engine a roller.
Compare if you were to change the engine over to a flat tappet cam. In addition to the cam (a wash), you need:
new lifters, new push rods (roller rods are shorter), new timing chain set for a non roller (you could reuse yours with the roller cam if it doesn't have a lot of miles/wear), change the distributor gear (different hardness). So, even if you needed new roller lifters, it would be worth it to keep the engine a roller.
Thanks Camaro 69, you are a big help.
So, I can get a new Cam, I will get a double roller chain, just cause I always change those when I have it apart. And if everything is in good shape then that is all I need.
I am thinking this cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19244485/
Lift small enough that it should work with my current heads.
I was told I wanted 110 separation, will a 112 separation make it lope more?
Will it still idle at least a little?
The power range is where I want to be. I have a small stall and have been able to launch at 2000 rpm, and I set everything else up to shift in the 6200 range. I am willing to add a 2500 stall, but would rather find a cam that has a power range like this one.
Thanks Again
So, I can get a new Cam, I will get a double roller chain, just cause I always change those when I have it apart. And if everything is in good shape then that is all I need.
I am thinking this cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19244485/
Lift small enough that it should work with my current heads.
I was told I wanted 110 separation, will a 112 separation make it lope more?
Will it still idle at least a little?
The power range is where I want to be. I have a small stall and have been able to launch at 2000 rpm, and I set everything else up to shift in the 6200 range. I am willing to add a 2500 stall, but would rather find a cam that has a power range like this one.
Thanks Again



