breaking in a cam?
#1
03-28-2007, 05:16 PM
breaking in a cam?
i have heard a few different ways for the cam to be broken in. some say the car just has to be running for 30 minutes then someone else said that u had to use rotella for the oil and im not just sure. can anyone help me with this?
#2
03-28-2007, 06:53 PM
RE: breaking in a cam?
i've always run it at 2500rpm's for about 30 minutes.i've never heard that about usingtractor oil.break it in with the oil your going to be running.after you break it in dump the oil and change the filter.
#4
03-28-2007, 07:26 PM
RE: breaking in a cam?
ORIGINAL: 74_camaro
i have heard a few different ways for the cam to be broken in. some say the car just has to be running for 30 minutes then someone else said that u had to use rotella for the oil and im not just sure. can anyone help me with this?
i have heard a few different ways for the cam to be broken in. some say the car just has to be running for 30 minutes then someone else said that u had to use rotella for the oil and im not just sure. can anyone help me with this?
I recommend the Joe Gibbs Break-In oil and run it for 30 minutes at 2000-2500 RPM and then change the oil and filter. Rotella T is an SL rated oil and is also safe for use on flat tappet cams; there are probably some others. I do suggest switching to a synthetic after break-in as most of those have the high pressure additives needed for flat tappet cams.
Hope that helps!
#5
03-28-2007, 07:29 PM
RE: breaking in a cam?
When you install the cam you need a GENEROUS amount of cam "break in" lube or some type of moly equivelent on the cam lobes. Should look like a thin layer of cake frosting on them if you have enough. Regular old Dino oil will work on the cam journals.
Same with the bottoms and sides of the lifters, bottom and tops of the pushrods and rockers. (use moly type lube)
Prime the oiling system to make sure there is pressure in the system,make sure the timing is close enough to get the car started, plenty of fuel in the tank, water (coolant for you street guys)in the radiator, and a hose ready if the car starts to get hot to spray the radiator.
Here's the tricky part, if you have a big cam this likely means that you have aftermarket springs that will have more open pressure than the factory ones. If this is the case you need to take out the inner spring before you start the motor. If not, you could, but not neccesarily, wipe out a lobe. I'd say anything over 300lbs open pressure will neccesitate the removal of the inner springs.
Make sure everything is ready to go.....period. And have a friend with you there through the whole process. Even if it's just to sit in the car if anything goes wrong.
Fire up the car and get the RPMs up to 2200-2500 with the idle speed screw on the throttle linkage. Don't just hold it there with your foot. Make sure your oil pressure is good. Anything above 30psi will do for the initial break in (you're only turning 2500RPMs). Set your timing if at all possible and readjust your idle staying in that RPM range. Watch your water temp and if it does spray the radiator with water to cool the system down.
You are at the point of no return now. Don't shut the car off for at least 20 minutes. If the car dies, get it fired up as quick as possible. When you first try to start the car, don't turn the engine over too much. Step back and see if there is something not letting the car start. I.E. no fuel getting to the carb or something like that. If you feel overwelmed, don't worry about the timing unless the car is running really rough.
After that 20 minutes or so bring the idle down check the gauges and shut the car off. Pull the valve covers and check your valve lash (or make sure there are no loose ones if it is a hydraulic cam). If there are any loose ones, now's the time to make sure that a lobe dodn't get wiped out. If not, then you're good to go.
BTW, you need to change out the oil you used to break in the cam.There willbeplenty of break in lube in the oil that needs to be removed as to not clog the filter. Oh, change the filter too. While you're at it, cut the filter open and look between the pleats for any larger metal particles. Just a precaution on my part...
Sorry so long and boring......
RM
Dam**t, took to long to type. You got three answers while I was typing this novel
Same with the bottoms and sides of the lifters, bottom and tops of the pushrods and rockers. (use moly type lube)
Prime the oiling system to make sure there is pressure in the system,make sure the timing is close enough to get the car started, plenty of fuel in the tank, water (coolant for you street guys)in the radiator, and a hose ready if the car starts to get hot to spray the radiator.
Here's the tricky part, if you have a big cam this likely means that you have aftermarket springs that will have more open pressure than the factory ones. If this is the case you need to take out the inner spring before you start the motor. If not, you could, but not neccesarily, wipe out a lobe. I'd say anything over 300lbs open pressure will neccesitate the removal of the inner springs.
Make sure everything is ready to go.....period. And have a friend with you there through the whole process. Even if it's just to sit in the car if anything goes wrong.
Fire up the car and get the RPMs up to 2200-2500 with the idle speed screw on the throttle linkage. Don't just hold it there with your foot. Make sure your oil pressure is good. Anything above 30psi will do for the initial break in (you're only turning 2500RPMs). Set your timing if at all possible and readjust your idle staying in that RPM range. Watch your water temp and if it does spray the radiator with water to cool the system down.
You are at the point of no return now. Don't shut the car off for at least 20 minutes. If the car dies, get it fired up as quick as possible. When you first try to start the car, don't turn the engine over too much. Step back and see if there is something not letting the car start. I.E. no fuel getting to the carb or something like that. If you feel overwelmed, don't worry about the timing unless the car is running really rough.
After that 20 minutes or so bring the idle down check the gauges and shut the car off. Pull the valve covers and check your valve lash (or make sure there are no loose ones if it is a hydraulic cam). If there are any loose ones, now's the time to make sure that a lobe dodn't get wiped out. If not, then you're good to go.
BTW, you need to change out the oil you used to break in the cam.There willbeplenty of break in lube in the oil that needs to be removed as to not clog the filter. Oh, change the filter too. While you're at it, cut the filter open and look between the pleats for any larger metal particles. Just a precaution on my part...
Sorry so long and boring......
RM
Dam**t, took to long to type. You got three answers while I was typing this novel
#6
03-28-2007, 07:42 PM
RE: breaking in a cam?
ORIGINAL: RatMotor
When you install the cam you need a GENEROUS amount of cam "break in" lube or some type of moly equivelent on the cam lobes. Should look like a thin layer of cake frosting on them if you have enough. Regular old Dino oil will work on the cam journals.
Same with the bottoms and sides of the lifters, bottom and tops of the pushrods and rockers. (use moly type lube)
Prime the oiling system to make sure there is pressure in the system,make sure the timing is close enough to get the car started, plenty of fuel in the tank, water (coolant for you street guys)in the radiator, and a hose ready if the car starts to get hot to spray the radiator.
Here's the tricky part, if you have a big cam this likely means that you have aftermarket springs that will have more open pressure than the factory ones. If this is the case you need to take out the inner spring before you start the motor. If not, you could, but not neccesarily, wipe out a lobe. I'd say anything over 300lbs open pressure will neccesitate the removal of the inner springs.
Make sure everything is ready to go.....period. And have a friend with you there through the whole process. Even if it's just to sit in the car if anything goes wrong.
Fire up the car and get the RPMs up to 2200-2500 with the idle speed screw on the throttle linkage. Don't just hold it there with your foot. Make sure your oil pressure is good. Anything above 30psi will do for the initial break in (you're only turning 2500RPMs). Set your timing if at all possible and readjust your idle staying in that RPM range. Watch your water temp and if it does spray the radiator with water to cool the system down.
You are at the point of no return now. Don't shut the car off for at least 20 minutes. If the car dies, get it fired up as quick as possible. When you first try to start the car, don't turn the engine over too much. Step back and see if there is something not letting the car start. I.E. no fuel getting to the carb or something like that. If you feel overwelmed, don't worry about the timing unless the car is running really rough.
After that 20 minutes or so bring the idle down check the gauges and shut the car off. Pull the valve covers and check your valve lash (or make sure there are no loose ones if it is a hydraulic cam). If there are any loose ones, now's the time to make sure that a lobe dodn't get wiped out. If not, then you're good to go.
BTW, you need to change out the oil you used to break in the cam.There willbeplenty of break in lube in the oil that needs to be removed as to not clog the filter. Oh, change the filter too. While you're at it, cut the filter open and look between the pleats for any larger metal particles. Just a precaution on my part...
Sorry so long and boring......
RM
Dam**t, took to long to type. You got three answers while I was typing this novel
When you install the cam you need a GENEROUS amount of cam "break in" lube or some type of moly equivelent on the cam lobes. Should look like a thin layer of cake frosting on them if you have enough. Regular old Dino oil will work on the cam journals.
Same with the bottoms and sides of the lifters, bottom and tops of the pushrods and rockers. (use moly type lube)
Prime the oiling system to make sure there is pressure in the system,make sure the timing is close enough to get the car started, plenty of fuel in the tank, water (coolant for you street guys)in the radiator, and a hose ready if the car starts to get hot to spray the radiator.
Here's the tricky part, if you have a big cam this likely means that you have aftermarket springs that will have more open pressure than the factory ones. If this is the case you need to take out the inner spring before you start the motor. If not, you could, but not neccesarily, wipe out a lobe. I'd say anything over 300lbs open pressure will neccesitate the removal of the inner springs.
Make sure everything is ready to go.....period. And have a friend with you there through the whole process. Even if it's just to sit in the car if anything goes wrong.
Fire up the car and get the RPMs up to 2200-2500 with the idle speed screw on the throttle linkage. Don't just hold it there with your foot. Make sure your oil pressure is good. Anything above 30psi will do for the initial break in (you're only turning 2500RPMs). Set your timing if at all possible and readjust your idle staying in that RPM range. Watch your water temp and if it does spray the radiator with water to cool the system down.
You are at the point of no return now. Don't shut the car off for at least 20 minutes. If the car dies, get it fired up as quick as possible. When you first try to start the car, don't turn the engine over too much. Step back and see if there is something not letting the car start. I.E. no fuel getting to the carb or something like that. If you feel overwelmed, don't worry about the timing unless the car is running really rough.
After that 20 minutes or so bring the idle down check the gauges and shut the car off. Pull the valve covers and check your valve lash (or make sure there are no loose ones if it is a hydraulic cam). If there are any loose ones, now's the time to make sure that a lobe dodn't get wiped out. If not, then you're good to go.
BTW, you need to change out the oil you used to break in the cam.There willbeplenty of break in lube in the oil that needs to be removed as to not clog the filter. Oh, change the filter too. While you're at it, cut the filter open and look between the pleats for any larger metal particles. Just a precaution on my part...
Sorry so long and boring......
RM
Dam**t, took to long to type. You got three answers while I was typing this novel
#7
03-28-2007, 07:45 PM
RE: breaking in a cam?
If this is a flat tappet cam, be warned that the new non-synthetic oils with the SM rating are not compatable with flat tappet cam engines; especially for break-in.
These articles that Hot Rod (and others) put out that say we need to run a special cam additive in our oilat every change do no justice for those of us that PROPERLY break a cam in and use good parts. I've seen just as many people wipe a lobe with Kendall or Rotella as I have with regular old motor oil.
The proper steps taken and the proper break in lube will work 99% of the time. That other 1% is for the given fluke that happens to all of us. I've wiped out 2 lobes on the many engines I've built in the last 20 years. One was a fluke. The lifter never spun in the bore (my fault) and the other was because I was too lazy to pull the inner springs (my fault). All this was with generous amounts of break in Moly from Isky and regular old 10W-30 oil and proper techniques.
RM
EDIT: machineman, I mean no offense to you, but I can't be convinced of these statements from oil and (some) cam makers.
#8
03-28-2007, 08:14 PM
RE: breaking in a cam?
What about using 1.3 ratio rockers would that save the removal of the inner spring in some cases? Also the priming before firing should the oil come out the puhrods? I primed the one engine for about 5 minutes an see no oil in the heads ?
#10
03-28-2007, 10:56 PM
RE: breaking in a cam?
ORIGINAL: GRIFF
What about using 1.3 ratio rockers would that save the removal of the inner spring in some cases? Also the priming before firing should the oil come out the puhrods? I primed the one engine for about 5 minutes an see no oil in the heads ?
What about using 1.3 ratio rockers would that save the removal of the inner spring in some cases? Also the priming before firing should the oil come out the puhrods? I primed the one engine for about 5 minutes an see no oil in the heads ?
This is an extreme case but Pro Stock and Comp guys are running open pressures in excess of 750lbs. They have to use a completely different spring alltogether. The flip side is most aftermarket "replacment" and factory springs rarely excess about 225lbs open. Normally not a problem for breaking in. Besides, who here typically builds enough motors to necessitate the cost of an extra set of 1.3's. Yeah it's kind of a pain to put the outer's on the heads and then later have to pull them, slip the inners in and put them back on the heads. It is tried and true though.
As for the oil in the push rods, it won't happen with a rotating assembly in the static position. The pushrods need to be working in conjunction with the lifters for the oil to move through them. To make a long story short,aside from the oil gallies on the sides of the camshaft (which oil the cam journals), most of the oiling that happens on the upper part of the engine is produced from the slinging action of the crank rotating. Also, the lifters have to spin (of course) for the oil to get into the groove and the oiling hole for that part of the oiling process to take place. And back to the original posters question,that is why the RPM's need to be so high during break in. The crank has to be rotating fast enough to "throw" the oil onto the cam (lobes in particular) to maintain the oiling process on the upper part of the engine. That's why you see no oil on the heads when you prime an engine. If you're replacing something ither than the lifters or camshaft, say timing chain or pushrods, there is already oil in the lifters and you MIGHT see oil come out of the pushrods.
Another short (longwinded) post. I guess I type better than I talk.
RM