For a few years, back in the 1960's, Carter was also building the Quadrajunk...oops I mean jet, in conjunction with Rochester to help keep up with production demand. It's the exact same carb, with a different name on it. It's not a well known fact, and you could have a collectors item there!

 

Hey Mr. 69! My response to your questions are in parentheses

Do you know how many miles are on it? (We're looking for the paperwork that came with the car....as of right now I have no idea. It's either 153k OR 253k).

Does it blow any smoke when you start it? (Just a little upon stating only) Or while driving it, backing off the throttle a few seconds, and then hitting the gas again? (No)

Compression for a fairly tight engine should be in the 150-160 range. And the lowest reading wants to be no less than 75% of the highest reading (25% less). Obviously, the higher and closer to each other they are, the better. (.75 x 130 = 97.5 which is close to my cylinder no. 2 reading of 95)

You can also test the engine by first getting your reading, then squirt some oil in the cylinder and read it again. If the number goes up, you'll know your rings are worn since the oil will seal them momentarily as you take your reading. (We will try that today! Thanks!)

On the carb secondaries, check that your choke is opening all the way, and that the linkage is clear. There is an interlock pawl on the linkage that keeps the secondaries from opening until the engine warms up (choke opens). Or, the secondaries wind up spring could be too tight, it's adjustable. (We will check this out today as well)

If you find your timing chain is worn, getting a name brand double roller chain would be a good choice. You need to lower the oil pan in the front to clear the corner tabs of the timing chain cover. Or you might be able to force it off without lowering the pan. There's a trick where you cut the covers inner upper corners of the gasket lip on an angle to make it easier to get back on. Just use a little extra silicone schmootz in those corners when you put it back together. (Hope it doesn't come down to that. The cops in our neighborhood like to ticket for working on our cars. Got a ticket for having the Camaro on jacks while painting the rear axle with por15.)

Got a lot to do today!
Thanks for the advice - it is appreciated!!

 

Yeah, the engine is probably tired. I would LOVE to get a new crate engine....got to save those pennies!

I will definitely keep you guys posted, thanks for everything!

 

Sheesh, is that with the car in the street, or your driveway?
Good luck with everything.

 

The car is parked in the street but in front of our drive way. Oh well.

So we took off the valve covers to inspect the rockers/springs/push rods. As you can see from this video taken (http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...t=104_6475.flv) the rocker is barely moving. My dad took each nut to zero lash and gave them two 1/4 turns. This one was very, very loose...and the the source of the ticking. Every rocker and spring set looks good except for this one. My dad thinks it could be a broken hydraulic lifter, maybe? We don't think it's a cam because the timing doesn't bounce all over the place when revving. What do you guys think?

Oh and the backfiring went away, yay!!!

 

Well hopefully it's just a lifter or spring,if it is a bad lobe on the cam you can do a new cam/lifters and timing chain set pretty cheap and without pulling the motor.
If it has dual springs look at the springs on that rocker very close to be sure one isn't broken.
Good luck and keep us updated.

 

Yeah, you've got a flattened cam lobe on the #1 exhaust. But, as long as it keeps running OK....
Start saving up for a cam/lifters/timing chain change, because it's days are numbered, but not necessarily right around the corner.

 

You don't think it can be a failed hyd lifter not being able to pump up? With it being the #1 exhaust it would be the last in line for oil right? Couldn't the oil hole in it be blocked and preventing it to oil up? There's not a whole lot of oil running over like the ones next to it in the video. Almost like it's not being fed oil which seems like a failed lifter.

I'm having a problem with noisy lifters and got the Isky anti-pump up lifters for about a 125. Haven't installed them yet but should do it sometime this week when I get my new intake.

Doesn't matter if it's the cam with that. The gear on the cam at the end affects timing, not the lobes. The distributor sends the spark which reads from the gear on the end of your cam and your timing light reads from that. You could have a perfectly round cam with no lobes and still read timing. Your valves just won't be working.

 

Well it's not a huge job to pull the intake and have a look.

 

Doesn't really matter much if it's the cam lobe or a lifter. You can't put a new flat tappet lifter on an old cam, not if you plan on keeping the car anyway. If you're selling the car, then do what you want. Do that, and you will end up with a cam lobe problem if you don't have one now.
But if it was a collapsed lifter, I would expect you to have heard that rocker arm clacking quite a lot right after your initial "static" adjustment. Was it? Plus, if the lifter is collapsed, and after adjusting the valves with the engine running, you should be seeing relatively the same amount of travel at the rocker as with the other ones. But if that's the case, and you adjusted that valve with the lifter bottomed out, you're taking a chance of bending a push rod, or worse.