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96 Camaro 3800 Starting problem

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  #21  
Old 07-21-2013, 08:00 AM
sosorry2004's Avatar
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Default 1 other thing

are u using the original key or copy even though those keys look the same the they don't have a chip in them they work off of the resistance conducted within the key sounds crazy, I know I said same thing but if u test the resistance ohm in the key u will see what im referring too, the orginal and the copy key should be real close but unlike the same
theres 2 tiny wires the go into the back of ur key switch the ohm resistance from the key completes the circuit between those and disables the security in the pcm .. if you have no luck ive been able to spice those wires together and get around not having the original key that was programmed to the switch but I would make that a last resort and if it comes to that and it solves the issue twist them together and push them in the steerin column and considerate fixed, its just the anti theft that gm has built into the bios of the car (factory alarm) also try going to the passenger door and locking and unlocking the car 5 times in 1minute it disables the factory security
 
  #22  
Old 07-21-2013, 08:19 AM
sosorry2004's Avatar
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Default all ase certified

all dealer mechanics and any certified will tell u that the first thing they check when a car is the Ground wires they say that 85 percent of the time its just a bad ground or connection also seen the starters and alternators have a good testing at the parts house and work but be bad causing crazy codes, check crank and cam sensors might remove and reinstall crank jus to make sure its sitting in there correctly the slightest displacement will cause all of this im leaning toward cam senor or maybe the battery in the car just unhook ur battery and maybe hook another one up with just cable or put it in the car and see if it changes anything
 
  #23  
Old 07-21-2013, 12:56 PM
Krusher RS's Avatar
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Originally Posted by sosorry2004
I've been there my father owned a 96 caviler, it started doing just like your describing we checked all the normal things, we were thinking the pump was going bad (we figured out that if we would play with the key and and cycle it back and forth until we heard what sounded like the fuel pump but it wasn't ill explain, that the car would start everytime after it made the humming noise, we took it the shop and discovered that the key ignition switch was going out, I bet that you lock cyclinder where the key goes is touch meaning that sometime you have to move the key and maybe even the steering whell to get the key to roll forward from the lock position. and its probable getting worse. 1996 chevys iginition system changed they have a flaw in the design meaning that any other year you can get in the car and hit the key all at once and it starts right up, in 96 the pcm is programmed to run through and check all componets before it boots up and is ready to operate, a lot like ur home computer, and if you crank the car before Its ready it wont start might take 3 or 4 tries when all is working right . my suggestion is the next time you drive your car pay attention to the switch and note weither its as smooth as u would expect or if it drags and also listen for the sounds the car makes when key is on and engine is off before starting in comparison to not starting, make sure u turn ur key on DONT CRANK count to 10 and then continue to turn key on and she if ur luck changes. the switch in the caviler was roughly 800 dollars and that was 4 years ago the parts was right at 5 and the labor was costly cause they had to program the pcm to the key good luck and hope this helps

Mine is a NO SPARK condition rather than fuel.
 
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