subwoofer and amp question
#31
RE: subwoofer and amp question
ORIGINAL: Spartan66
i went to car toys, spent 230 on a 12in 1000wat JBL sub and a 460wat amp (i forgot the RMS but w/e) and then boughta rockford fosgate 8awg wiring kit for like 45 or somethingAND gotmy kenwood deck for christmasbought the little kit for the face to make it look like it was supposed to go there and i didnt just rip out the old one and throw in the new one. Installed it myself left the bose speakers in there and it sounds good, shakes the whole car.
i went to car toys, spent 230 on a 12in 1000wat JBL sub and a 460wat amp (i forgot the RMS but w/e) and then boughta rockford fosgate 8awg wiring kit for like 45 or somethingAND gotmy kenwood deck for christmasbought the little kit for the face to make it look like it was supposed to go there and i didnt just rip out the old one and throw in the new one. Installed it myself left the bose speakers in there and it sounds good, shakes the whole car.
#32
RE: subwoofer and amp question
http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm <- stealth box that's not grossly expensive, and I've heard nothing but good things about.
My setup, in 3/4" MDF. Crap subs, 220W Jensen amp. Subs and amp are OOOLD. Still rattles the bodywork. The box is key. Cost me ~$30 in materials or so.
depending on the sub, you could use one like that half its size most likely and still sound good. Kicker CVR10(s) would be very happy in that box. It's ~2.2 cu ft. Not stealthy, but leaves the trunk well open, and the stealth niche open for a CD changer.
My setup, in 3/4" MDF. Crap subs, 220W Jensen amp. Subs and amp are OOOLD. Still rattles the bodywork. The box is key. Cost me ~$30 in materials or so.
depending on the sub, you could use one like that half its size most likely and still sound good. Kicker CVR10(s) would be very happy in that box. It's ~2.2 cu ft. Not stealthy, but leaves the trunk well open, and the stealth niche open for a CD changer.
#33
RE: subwoofer and amp question
I'm back! Starting into this now. I like squisher's idea, but theft out here is wild, so I need to hide my subs. I also fold my seat down to carry things around very often. I cut out a rectangle of some .5" plywood that I had laying around. I know that this isn't the best for sound, but I'm not a stereo nut. I hardly ever turn it on. I'm going to get some real cheap subs, just to get me by until I can afford the proper equipment. THis board I made is also temporary. It'll sit in the back, and an angle. I'll post picks as soon as I get some material on it. I have two 3 way 6x9's back there right now, and I like the extra sound. So far, I have invested $4 into this high tech setup. Just need two subs, and I'm good. Probably going to get 2 $30 12" woofers. Ha, I know everyone will call me an idiot, but there is a local car show coming up, and I just want something sitting in there. I never turn the radio on anyway. Maybe..... once a month. Someday, when the stereo becomes my priority, I jump in and do it all right, from the head unit, to everything else.
#34
RE: subwoofer and amp question
This is the sub I'm looking at, I can get two of them.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...n+SW1251.html#
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...n+SW1251.html#
#35
RE: subwoofer and amp question
Seems cheap, but considering what I have in my box, if you build the enclosure right, it will sound pretty good anyway.
I would do a little more work than just throwing a plank over your trunk well, that sub with that much airspace probably won't do so well. It doesn't list how much airspace to use though, but 12s will probably do well with ~1-4 cubic feet in a sealed box. My box is ~2.25, and would house 12s pretty easy. You could do something similar that would mount in the trunk instead (and be hidden that way). Follow up your idea with the plywood, but make a full enclosure that would only take up about 1/3 of your trunk (depth-wise). With the right enclosure, even mediocre speakers sound good.
The .5" plywood won't be the best in the world, but it will work alright I guess. A 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF should only be ~$20-$30 at your nearest lumber yard. Good acoustic qualities, and easy to work with. If you get it at Lowes, they'll cut it up for you (25 cents/cut, 1st cut free locally) if you've got measurements.
If you're wanting good quality without breaking the bank, I've been very happy with Kicker's CompVR series (I have had a CVR 8 that got stolen, and currently own a CVR10). The '05 model CompVR12 is only $85
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+05CVR124.html
it comes in dual 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm voicecoil configurations (same price either way).
The '07 is more, but I doubt there's much difference at all. Pair that sub (or subs) up with a decent amp and you'll be set.
I would do a little more work than just throwing a plank over your trunk well, that sub with that much airspace probably won't do so well. It doesn't list how much airspace to use though, but 12s will probably do well with ~1-4 cubic feet in a sealed box. My box is ~2.25, and would house 12s pretty easy. You could do something similar that would mount in the trunk instead (and be hidden that way). Follow up your idea with the plywood, but make a full enclosure that would only take up about 1/3 of your trunk (depth-wise). With the right enclosure, even mediocre speakers sound good.
The .5" plywood won't be the best in the world, but it will work alright I guess. A 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF should only be ~$20-$30 at your nearest lumber yard. Good acoustic qualities, and easy to work with. If you get it at Lowes, they'll cut it up for you (25 cents/cut, 1st cut free locally) if you've got measurements.
If you're wanting good quality without breaking the bank, I've been very happy with Kicker's CompVR series (I have had a CVR 8 that got stolen, and currently own a CVR10). The '05 model CompVR12 is only $85
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+05CVR124.html
it comes in dual 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm voicecoil configurations (same price either way).
The '07 is more, but I doubt there's much difference at all. Pair that sub (or subs) up with a decent amp and you'll be set.
#36
RE: subwoofer and amp question
Yeah, I know that my choice of wood is not the best. Right now, I'm not building a sealed box too. I should, but not right now. This is actually mostly for looks right now. When I do it right, I will revamp the entire sound system, and find the rear monsoon panels also. I'll build a good box to house two 12" subs. This won't happen for a while, as the sound system is not my priority at all. Just something I wanted to play with for a few bucks.
#37
RE: subwoofer and amp question
Well, let me see what I can do about a box. I'm going to play with some cad software and see what I can make. I've got an idea for a box that will look nice in the trunk, and out of sight. It might only be big enough to handle to 10's though. There's a company in town with a laser. If this box works, I could have them cut me out some patterns from steel and actually sell the boxes. But I need to work on it for a while.
#38
RE: subwoofer and amp question
I have a box sketched out on paper that has about 4 cu feet inside. I guess it could handle 2 12's. When I get into the cad, should I leave it sealed?
#39
RE: subwoofer and amp question
I would leave it sealed, especially if this is your first box. Sealed boxes are more forgiving than ported, because with a ported box, you have to do some math to determine how big around and how long your port is.
4 cubic feet is a little on the large side, but should still be within optimal. Speaker box size does depend on the speaker, you can technically get too big, but 4 cubic feet ought to be perfect for 2 decent 12s.
4 cubic feet is a little on the large side, but should still be within optimal. Speaker box size does depend on the speaker, you can technically get too big, but 4 cubic feet ought to be perfect for 2 decent 12s.
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