door speakers
#1
09-26-2009, 08:52 PM
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bakersfield California
Posts: 44
door speakers
Okay so i have a 95 z28. I have a pioneer deck that cost me about 250 a year and a half ago (not sure what model number). i have the original 4 door speakers, I think they are bose. i have 2 12 inch almani subs with a 1000 watts going to them. i also have a 4 channel amp that is wired to the 4 door speakers. it is a 440 watt amp so im assuming about 100 watts is going to each of the speakers. i want to get new door speakers and im wondering what is the biggest i could put into the doors that would be louder then the stock ones. also how hard is it to install door speakers if the amp is already connected to them?
#2
09-27-2009, 01:22 AM
The door speakers are 6.5" slim, I'm really surprised you would have a amp running the stock speakers, don't think they can handle 100W each. But anyway, in order to go bigger for the front doors you would have to cut away part of the inner door, and really what's bigger than 6.5", 6X9? They really don't make a full range 8" speaker. I would advice a good set of 2 or 3 way 6.5", they would work great for you and fit without mod'ng.
#5
09-30-2009, 06:52 PM
Oh I was confused. My car has a standard head unit but bose speakers evidently. When I changed my door speakers this weekend I was like WTF!! After some creative soldering and wire cutting I was able to hook up some full range 3-ways that sound pretty dang good if I do say so myself!
#6
09-30-2009, 08:54 PM
ok personally i modified my last camaro with 6.5inch 2way components in the front (basicly there is a dedicated woofer and separate tweeter with an external crossover) and cut my back speakers out to fit 6x9inch and when this is done Dynamat is completely necessary to deaden the sound of the metal from where you have cut away to remove rattling. now also any after market speaker will handle considerably more power than any after market radio will provide. most decks will only be about 50watts Max and about 15-22watts RMS. now RMS is the amount of power it will handle all the time. Matching an external amplifier to the demand of your speakers will increase not only the Volume of your system but also you sound quality and life of your speakers. You are honestly more likely to blow a speaker that is under powered just as you can if you over power one... Distortion is what blows speakers and human ears are not finely tuned to notice the subtle distortion that will do damage to your speakers. Typically if your radio is between 1/2 or 3/4 of max volume it will begin to clip and distort and you may never notice until it's too late.
#7
09-30-2009, 09:02 PM
also in the premium sound systems in these cars the middle speakers only get low's because they are factory woofers from the amp and can be wired to full range but i would say just eliminate the rear speakers and run those wires forward. the factory amp location is behind the spare tire i'll post wire colors when i get to work tomorrow. if it had the bose or monsoon sound system the front woofers and middle woofers are 2ohm speakers and if you use aftermarket speakers they are typically 4ohm all that would do is cut the power output of the factory amp in half. power and resistance are inverse so if you double resistance you half power so you may only be getting half of what that amp has to give but by bridging the back channel and the middle channel you should be fine and could have full range sound from your middle speakers.
#8
09-30-2009, 09:28 PM
Yeah but if you seperate the wires that tie the driver to the tweet on a full range speaker and then wire them in parallel you will end up with 2 ohms on a standard 4 ohm speaker. I used to have 6 Rockford 12's wired in parallel to a 300 watt .5 ohm stable high current amp. The 500 watt and below SPL class didnt know what hit em'
#9
09-30-2009, 11:33 PM
A 2 or 3 way speaker is already measured by the amount of ohms between the two. So a 4 ohm 2 way, is already two 8 ohm speakers wired parallel. So if you cut the wires to a tweeter, then you're still only getting 2 4 ohm speakers. Hope that makes sense.
There's usually a resistor inline to a tweeter for a 2 or 3 way speaker, to cut out mid range freq's so the tweeter only receives hi freq's. If you do cut the wires, be sure and cut it before that, so it's still there.
There's usually a resistor inline to a tweeter for a 2 or 3 way speaker, to cut out mid range freq's so the tweeter only receives hi freq's. If you do cut the wires, be sure and cut it before that, so it's still there.
#10
10-01-2009, 07:42 PM
A 2 or 3 way speaker is already measured by the amount of ohms between the two. So a 4 ohm 2 way, is already two 8 ohm speakers wired parallel. So if you cut the wires to a tweeter, then you're still only getting 2 4 ohm speakers. Hope that makes sense.
There's usually a resistor inline to a tweeter for a 2 or 3 way speaker, to cut out mid range freq's so the tweeter only receives hi freq's. If you do cut the wires, be sure and cut it before that, so it's still there.
There's usually a resistor inline to a tweeter for a 2 or 3 way speaker, to cut out mid range freq's so the tweeter only receives hi freq's. If you do cut the wires, be sure and cut it before that, so it's still there.