wheel rubbing help!!!
#1
06-11-2013, 03:42 PM
wheel rubbing help!!!
ok I threw some rims and tires on today and noticed that the rear wheel on the driver side was pretty much touching. I have 295/35/18 on the rear. now everybody says to beat in the inner fender with a rubber malet. when they say that are they talking about that black inner wall. also if I do that its not going to cause any damage to anything behind that??? Max help is needed here. THX
#2
06-11-2013, 05:02 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tokeland, Washington
Posts: 21,641
pictures got deleted when photobucket took a crab and changed there site. heres the post from here Wheel & Tire FAQ - General Topics - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board
1. Cut the outer, projecting edge off the jounce bumper bracket. With the car at normal ride height, the edge of the bracket will be slightly inside the opening in the rear of the wheel. When you try and jack the car by the body, as the wheel drops relative to the chassis, the bracket will catch on the inside edge of the rim and gouge it.
Some people do not cut the brackets - that seems risky to me. Others completely remove the jounce bumpers. That is risky as well. The jounce bumpers keep the chassis from slamming down on the rear axle assembly. They also protect the shock absorbers from excessive compression, which can damage them.
2. Hammer the inner fender liners. The tire may hit at the front of the wheel well. You take a 3# hammer and bash in the area where it rubs. Make sure your back seat is in the upright and locked position. If not, hammering on the wheel well could move the pin for the seat back and make it diffcult to latch the seat.
3. Recenter the body over the rear axle with an adjustable panhard rod. If the clearance between the tire and the inside edges of the tire and the inner fender liner are not equal on both sides of the car, you may need to adjust the side-to-side centering.
4. Roll the fender lip. At the edge of the wheel opening, there is a 3/4" wide horizontal "lip" that sticks straight out toward the edge of the tire. If you use an offset less than 45mm, if your body is not correctly centered over the axle, or maybe if you have soft panhard rod bushings, its possible for the lip to hit the sidewall of the tire on hard cornering, or even on a really heavy shift. To prevent this, the lip may need to be "rolled" up to it doesn't point at the tire.
Several ways to do this, including rolling a baseball bat between the tire and the fender, lightly hammering the lip, using a tool like "The Jimmy" that graps the lip and bends it upward at a 45-degree angle, or using a fender lip rolling tool like the one that The Eastwood Company sells (about $300). It is likely that the paint on the lip will chip as the lip bends. To prevent the chips from extending to the outer surface of the fender, you take a razor blade, and cut into th paint on the flat part of the lip, so when the paint cracks, it cracks in a straight line. Its best to use a little tough-up paint to seal the cracks when you are done. It will not be visible. I've also heard that if you use a heat gun on the paint as you are trying to bend the lip upwards, it will reduce/eliminate cracking of the paint.
NOT ALL 4th GENS ARE THE SAME, and not all tires are the same. Several people have managed to put the 17x11's on the back with no problems at all. Others have had to do everything that I mentioned above. There is no "correct" answer - each car is different.
1. Cut the outer, projecting edge off the jounce bumper bracket. With the car at normal ride height, the edge of the bracket will be slightly inside the opening in the rear of the wheel. When you try and jack the car by the body, as the wheel drops relative to the chassis, the bracket will catch on the inside edge of the rim and gouge it.
Some people do not cut the brackets - that seems risky to me. Others completely remove the jounce bumpers. That is risky as well. The jounce bumpers keep the chassis from slamming down on the rear axle assembly. They also protect the shock absorbers from excessive compression, which can damage them.
2. Hammer the inner fender liners. The tire may hit at the front of the wheel well. You take a 3# hammer and bash in the area where it rubs. Make sure your back seat is in the upright and locked position. If not, hammering on the wheel well could move the pin for the seat back and make it diffcult to latch the seat.
3. Recenter the body over the rear axle with an adjustable panhard rod. If the clearance between the tire and the inside edges of the tire and the inner fender liner are not equal on both sides of the car, you may need to adjust the side-to-side centering.
4. Roll the fender lip. At the edge of the wheel opening, there is a 3/4" wide horizontal "lip" that sticks straight out toward the edge of the tire. If you use an offset less than 45mm, if your body is not correctly centered over the axle, or maybe if you have soft panhard rod bushings, its possible for the lip to hit the sidewall of the tire on hard cornering, or even on a really heavy shift. To prevent this, the lip may need to be "rolled" up to it doesn't point at the tire.
Several ways to do this, including rolling a baseball bat between the tire and the fender, lightly hammering the lip, using a tool like "The Jimmy" that graps the lip and bends it upward at a 45-degree angle, or using a fender lip rolling tool like the one that The Eastwood Company sells (about $300). It is likely that the paint on the lip will chip as the lip bends. To prevent the chips from extending to the outer surface of the fender, you take a razor blade, and cut into th paint on the flat part of the lip, so when the paint cracks, it cracks in a straight line. Its best to use a little tough-up paint to seal the cracks when you are done. It will not be visible. I've also heard that if you use a heat gun on the paint as you are trying to bend the lip upwards, it will reduce/eliminate cracking of the paint.
NOT ALL 4th GENS ARE THE SAME, and not all tires are the same. Several people have managed to put the 17x11's on the back with no problems at all. Others have had to do everything that I mentioned above. There is no "correct" answer - each car is different.
#5
06-11-2013, 06:59 PM
yeah there is a little bit of room on the other side. what would I need to do. can a tire shop fix this??
#8
06-11-2013, 07:21 PM
so if I bought this and brought it somewhere to install my wheels wouldn't rub in the rear anymore??