I have a 95 Camaro, 3.4L V6 that will not start correctly. I thought it was fuel related, so I dropped the exhaust, tank, etc. The fuel pump is working. I pressure tested it and it is holding 41 steady. So I put all that back together.

Checked the fuel filter and it was discusting, so I replaced it and figured that maybe there was build up somewhere in the lines or a clogged injector. Replaced injectors, blew out all the lines in the fuel rail. Still won't start correctly. It turns over, but if it does run, it runs rough (almost like it isn't running on all the cylinders).

So I figured it was electrical. Replaced plugs and wires, all fuses and relays. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator....double checked the injectors, (which resulted in a small fire....NICE!!!--Don't tease me, I'm a mechanic in training!)

Anyway, still no luck. Had the battery and alternator checked...they are fine. Replaced the Coolant sensor and the crankshaft sensor and checked the timing. Also replaced the coils. STILL NOT COOPERATING!!!!

Replaced the little computer thingie under the driver dash. Tried to have it tested at Autozone for trouble codes, but it wouldn't give the tester any info. Just kept kicking it out of the system.

When I do get it to run (through a series of attempts at turning the car on and off and on and off and on and off until it idles correctly) SHE RUNS LIKE A CHAMP! Seriously....like zero to 75 in less than 7 seconds. No vibration. No cutting out or surging. NO PROBLEMS. Can drive it all over the place. But once I shut her down....forget about it.

Also...Is it normal that I can take my key out of the ignition while driving and the car continues to run perfectly?

Please help me fix my toy!

 

WHat codes do you have? Get it scanned with an OBD-1 compatible scanner (with correct cable for your model year, ALDL I believe). If you can't complete a scan, you need to address your PCM issues first...

 

whats the pcm??

oh lol nev

 

ive ben reading outher posts about a V.A.T.S system could that aslo be my problem??

 

Sounds like your ignition is shot. Your key shouldn't come out.

 

you need to get it scanned for codes otherwise your just going to be dumping random money into it (this is mechanic 101 you should this) your going to have to take the car to a shop and pay to have it scanned unless you know someone with an aldl cable

 

Are you real a mechanic in training or just a guy playing? The path you have taken up to this point makes no sense. Why would you pull the tank to check fuel pressure? If the fuel pressure tests ok why change the regulator? If you test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and it is good your done with fuel pressure. It should be a 5 minute check. What you are doing is what we call throwing parts at a problem. You might get luckly or you might spend $100 just to find out you have a little dirt some place it should not be.

If you can pull the key straight out with turning the key off all the means is the tumblers in the key cylinder are shot. It will not cause this issue. Vats failure will cause the car to not start but its an on off switch Not a run real bad switch.

You need to pull codes from your PCM. You are looking for a rich code. A dripping injector is a likely cause. Also pulling the plug may help to figure out whats going on and/or which injector is the issue. There are several other things that can cause this condition. A stuck open EGR valve a failing or very dirty IAC motor also.

 

0-75 less than 7 secs.? 3.4? Really....??? Lmao

 

And don't worry about the key coming out of the ignition lock, it won't hurt anything. I've had a few cars (all GM locks btw) that have had enough wear to where the key could be pulled out. I see it as more of a convenience really, being able to easily take the keys with you and lock the doors while warming up the engine in cold weather.

 

my car doesnt even have an ignition key