93-02 V6 Tech V6 Camaro General Topics.

Rained on my open intake manifold; got water in the block

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  #11  
Old 06-10-2010, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
Are you saying that the old gaskets weren't scraped off, and the mating surfaces weren't completely cleaned (nice and shiny)? If so, that IS your problem.
I removed the gaskets, and cleaned the surfaces, and cleaned them completely. Was not too pleased she took all the oil off the valves but didn't touch the gaskets, but eh. At least she got all the crap out of the channels.

osduck5: it was all off the car when it was cleaned; she put a lot of effort into it, and got 16 years of scum off it; was a whole lot nicer putting it all in than it was taking it out. The coilpacks never got wet. I replaced the lower o-rings on the injectors, but to be fair, I didn't inspect them for gunk. How would I tell if one is clogged?
 

Last edited by grover; 06-10-2010 at 10:10 PM.
  #12  
Old 06-10-2010, 10:24 PM
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how did you set the lifters? and arrr they stock?
 
  #13  
Old 06-11-2010, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by grover
I replaced the lower o-rings on the injectors, but to be fair, I didn't inspect them for gunk. How would I tell if one is clogged?
You can use a long screwdriver to touch each injector to feel if it is energizing if you do not have the test light. That don't mean it is sprayng though. I usually put the fuel rail with injectors in a large plastic bag as soon as I remove them just to make sure I don't get dirt/oil/junk in them.
 

Last edited by osduck5; 06-11-2010 at 06:40 AM.
  #14  
Old 06-11-2010, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by craby
how did you set the lifters? and arrr they stock?
They're stock. I turned the crank to the firing position of cyl 1, tightened half the valves (per Chilton) until the rocker arms quit rocking, then gave it another 1.5 turns. I rotated the crank another full turn and then tightened the rest. I visually verified the lifters were in the down position before tightening.

After I got the lower intake manifold on, I noticed a few of the rocker arms were still loose, which bothered me. I posted a question back here, but didn't get a response, assumed they were OK, and continued with reassembly.
 
  #15  
Old 06-11-2010, 11:22 AM
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should be set at .75 turns. you will need to reset them with the motor running to get them right.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
 

Last edited by craby; 06-11-2010 at 11:25 AM.
  #16  
Old 06-11-2010, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by craby
should be set at .75 turns. you will need to reset them with the motor running to get them right.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
Chilton said 1.5 turns; everyone else seems to say .75, though. I think I see my problem. I lashed 3 times because every time I did it and then double-checked, they were loose and I relashed them. I didn't realize the pistons moved. My valves are all probably way too tight

Is it possible to take off the valve covers without disassembling half the engine? Can I run it like that?
 

Last edited by grover; 06-11-2010 at 12:21 PM.
  #17  
Old 06-11-2010, 01:59 PM
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you can take the valve covers off without removing anything else. Might have to fight the plug wires.

Do not start the engine like that.
There is a good chance you already killed your cam.
Basically you are not allowing you valves to move properly.
 

Last edited by gfrench; 06-11-2010 at 02:03 PM.
  #18  
Old 06-11-2010, 03:11 PM
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losen the lifters before running again, yes you can run the motor with the cover off. ull want to do one side at a time though. less mess. you can strech a clean rag over the rockers so the oil wont make to big as your setting the one. dont wad it up or get it in there were it can get tangled up in the pushrod or rocker.
 
  #19  
Old 06-25-2010, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by gfrench
you can take the valve covers off without removing anything else. Might have to fight the plug wires.

Do not start the engine like that.
There is a good chance you already killed your cam.
Basically you are not allowing you valves to move properly.
How? There doesn't seem to be nearly enough clearance to take off the valve covers without removing the intake manifold first. I can't even see two of the bolts Gonna have to pull the fuel rail and upper intake off again, I guess. Adjusting while running is out, too, I suppose.

Should I assume I overtightened all the valves, and loosen them all until I feel lash? Is there another way to get them repressurized short of reassembling the engine, running it, and tearing it back down again?
 
  #20  
Old 07-11-2010, 02:39 PM
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Done! I ended up just looking at the photos I took before removing the lift rods, and backed off all the nuts until just 3 threads were showing. Seemed to do the trick, as the engine's running nice and smooth now, yeah!! I drove to the gas station and back (about 4 miles) with the cap off; still some steam coming out, but there don't seem to be any other ill effects..

Thanks for your help, everyone, I REALLY appreciate it! This was by-far the biggest and toughest automotive repair I've ever attempted, and though I probably could have suffered through it alone, having you all to lend moral support when I got stuck was a huge boost to my confidence.
 

Last edited by grover; 07-11-2010 at 06:21 PM.
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