The upper control are moved up and down with the spindle. The control arm rotates on a cross shaft this cross shaft is bolted to the car and it does not move. The bushing connects the moving and none moving parts. On many race cars these bushing are bearings.

 

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/.../photo_05.html

 

Oh ok, nice site Craby. But another question: I should replace all my bushings for both front upper control arms, so will I need a total of 4 bushings (one upper for each side and one lower for each side?) Cuz the pick looks like there needs two bushings for each upper control arms....

 

Let the voice of experince speak... I have just been throught this exercise on my 94.

I strongly suggest that you NOT attempt replacing the lower balljoints. I went the replacement route and it was a total PITA. Pressing in those bjs requires a HUGE amount of force that my 10 ton press couldn't provide. Plus, the contour of the LCA is VERY unfriendly for pressing-out and press-in balljoints. The LCA is made of several pieces of sheetmetal welded together and the metal isn't that thick so it is easy to bend and distort it. Making matters worse is that there isn't a flat surface on the top to press against during bj installation. AND the surface that the bj seats against is 1) recessed below the bottom of the LCA and 2) not parallel with the bottom of the LCA. So you're using a huge amount of force to press in a bj where you can't support the LCA properly/evenly and you're working blind once the bj is mostly installed.
If I had to do this over again I would DEFINITELY buy new LCAs at Rockauto ($200 each) becasue they come with new balljoints and bushing already installed.
As for the upper CAs the high dealership price is because GM only sells the whole assembly including the top plate/bracket. It's a big chunk of metal with the bushings, bolts, and balljoint installed.
Replacing the UCA bushings isn't too hard once you get the strut off the car. You can do the upper balljoint on-car but if the UCA is already off for bushings, well, do it then.
Do both sides, upper and lower, once and be done with it for life.
Oh, one more nasty surprise...
The LCA rear bushing is mounted vertically and the bolt that goes through it will probably be seized to the bushing inner sleeve. Good luck getting it out if you live in an area where road salt is used.
I had the whole engine support/subframe out of the car and still had to get totally Medieval for LCA rear bolt removal on one side. The bolts are hardened so drill bits were ruined almost instantly. I ended up using a 3" cutoff wheel and die grinder to remove the bolt head and then I POUNDED like crazy to drive that bolt shank through the bushing.
Take my advice or leave it. I'm just telling you what my experience was and I've been working on cars for 35 years. The front suspension work on my 94 was harder and more frustrating than any other part of the "restoration" process.

 

yes there are four bushings on each side two for each control arm so eight in total.

 

1augapfel, are you telling me to skip the lower ball joints and just replace the front upper control arms, front and lower control arm bushings, and upper ball joints? ?

 

1augapfel, sounds you are now an expert on bj's learning by the school of hard-knocks. You are referring to Ball Joints, right?
A little helpful fyi for anybody... Whenever installing a press-fit joint, put the joints in the freezer for a day first. The freezer will shrink the ball joints just a little, but enough to make it easier to get them in. In addition, you can also heat up the bare arms in the oven if you need to, which will expand the opening. I've even done head valve guide replacements that way. After drilling the old ones out, I put the new guides in the freezer and cooked the heads in the oven. An hour or so at 350, while basting occasionally does the trick. The new guides just tapped right in without any force. The freezing/heating technique does work.

 

I called the shop and they said they could take out the lower balljoints off, they have a special technic on doing it or something. So everything that I need replaced is as follows: Front upper control arms, front upper control arm bushings, upper ball joints and lower ball joints, they told me my front lower control arm bushings were not needed; then after a wheel alignment.

 

lol you guys are crazy, you guys are talking about doing all this in your own garage, I have to take my car to the shop for everything lol. I really wish I could do all this in my garage but can't so have to give money to shops like a shmuck.

 

Your car will drive much better with a sound front end.