High pitched wine out of rearend
#11
Back on topic I think? What exactly was done to the rear end? Considering the rear end doesn't have multiple gears... How would you repair more than the 1 set of gears? Sounds like somebody sold you a load of crap.
Is there enough differential fluid? And maybe you should have learned a lesson not to go to that same shop after blowing TWO differentials in different vehicles........
Is there enough differential fluid? And maybe you should have learned a lesson not to go to that same shop after blowing TWO differentials in different vehicles........
#12
nope dont think a vette will fit. pretty sure any 4th gen driveline will fit and yes try changing the rear fluid and like hevymetal says dont forget the gm additive.
#14
Vandee, do you know what was changed? The ring & pinion gears need to be changed as a set. I presume the other gears you're referring to would be the spider gears. Those don't have to be changed with the r&p, as long as their still good.
BigCat, the Vette rearend won't work at all, it's way different. The Vette's have had an independent rear axle since 1963. Noise when backing off is most likely a ring & pinion mesh issue. Causes could be worn carrier or pinion bearings. Even worn outer wheel bearings can put undue stress on the r&p gear mesh.
By the way, I have a 92 Vette, tell me more about the boneyard one. And where are you located?
BigCat, the Vette rearend won't work at all, it's way different. The Vette's have had an independent rear axle since 1963. Noise when backing off is most likely a ring & pinion mesh issue. Causes could be worn carrier or pinion bearings. Even worn outer wheel bearings can put undue stress on the r&p gear mesh.
By the way, I have a 92 Vette, tell me more about the boneyard one. And where are you located?
#15
I'm not 100% positive but i believe they change the spider gears but not the ring and pinion gears. But seeing how both rear ends we had done there are not right I'm thinking they didn't put them together right like something isn't lined up right or something
#17
Back on topic I think? What exactly was done to the rear end? Considering the rear end doesn't have multiple gears... How would you repair more than the 1 set of gears? Sounds like somebody sold you a load of crap.
Is there enough differential fluid? And maybe you should have learned a lesson not to go to that same shop after blowing TWO differentials in different vehicles........
Is there enough differential fluid? And maybe you should have learned a lesson not to go to that same shop after blowing TWO differentials in different vehicles........
#18
Grab a cup of cough fee, while I free up my fingers here it goes:
We have X and Y to line up. Ring is set in place and that needs to be pre-loaded in the pumpkin housing. She is going to float because the heat of the casting is going to grow when warm. Call that X, being she cannot move forward, only sideways.
She now moves to the drivers door or passenger door, we line up a shim on one bearing carrier housing matching the other. This is a twofold step; we center the touch point and have the backlash clearance point of the gear tooth.
For the pinion, she moves forward to the engine or back to the rear bumper with the same shim idea spacing. That Y factor, has to be shimmed once we set the "crush spacer" to torque spec. We have the U-joint collar draw up the correct [Y] clearance, by collapsing the crush spacer. The Y factor should line up with X factor and send a foot print > Smack dab in the middle of the ring and pinion with the proper backlash. So much for the new build.
___________________________________________
Do we have [more/less] clearance between ring and pinion growth? We sure do! We now have to back roll the pinion and stop the ring to find out to see where you are at? Now, I do not know if I gave you a good enough picture of the basic setup of the rear end? I'll keep going:
So, we have this 'blue dye' kind of bite down on a tooth print like you do at the dentist, looking for high spots of the filling. But, what we are looking for is to make sure the torque of the room temperature static assembly is within spec.
Someone mentioned that there is a matching wear pattern between ring and pinion is yes, meaning, the reason the ring and pinion come as a set is they match machine twirls like match maker, match maker, make me a match and now, ship it!
OK, so now we have thousands of the same gear meeting the other gear in so many revolutions, they dial back in. You mark a ring and pinion matching their inter mesh [tooth to tooth] is a wear pattern! So, there is a gear to ring match, as there will be the swirling-whirling wear pattern, just like the new set in a box.
Oh NO! Did the guy pull the ring carrier out, rebuild the inner gears, slash, posi clutches; forget to ink mark the gears before dis-assembly? Now he reassembles the ring to another gear of the pinion and not the one it mated with for thousands of miles? Guess what?
Ringa, ding-ding! I think that is one variable of a singing rear end about to make out with a new mate, they mismatch and sing together a new song. There is your new wear pattern ring (in the pun of parts and sounds).
Now for another variable. Say the tooth print is now too far up the ring? OK, wet your finger. Rub it around an empty wine glass and now listen to how far your foot print is way out toward the outside ring is, RINGa Ding! Ding! BINGO! I think we have a Whiner!
1.Foot print not in center after break-in = Whine while driving.
2. Pinion bearing walking up the gear is a worn bearing = Will whine and dine you eating hot dogs for awhile to pay for the rebuilding of the rear end.
3. Lift on throttle begins a whine = Foot print too far to the engine.
Those are just 3 variables. 2 are fundamental, the 3rd was experience the bearing walks up the gear like did you check how tight bearings are?
You watch the tear-down, photograph the foot print. Write down the backlash clearance, match the book against the gap now. Say none are out of adjustment. Ask where the ring to pinion marks were if this was a recent rebuild. I think you have a case or pro-rate the miles is eat the lesser of the two is parts or labor. I'm just assuming the gear was never matched before dis-assembly and there is part of your problem but not all of it.
Don't lose the evidence if you want any recourse from this! I am addressing two incidents here, remember.
We have X and Y to line up. Ring is set in place and that needs to be pre-loaded in the pumpkin housing. She is going to float because the heat of the casting is going to grow when warm. Call that X, being she cannot move forward, only sideways.
She now moves to the drivers door or passenger door, we line up a shim on one bearing carrier housing matching the other. This is a twofold step; we center the touch point and have the backlash clearance point of the gear tooth.
For the pinion, she moves forward to the engine or back to the rear bumper with the same shim idea spacing. That Y factor, has to be shimmed once we set the "crush spacer" to torque spec. We have the U-joint collar draw up the correct [Y] clearance, by collapsing the crush spacer. The Y factor should line up with X factor and send a foot print > Smack dab in the middle of the ring and pinion with the proper backlash. So much for the new build.
___________________________________________
Do we have [more/less] clearance between ring and pinion growth? We sure do! We now have to back roll the pinion and stop the ring to find out to see where you are at? Now, I do not know if I gave you a good enough picture of the basic setup of the rear end? I'll keep going:
So, we have this 'blue dye' kind of bite down on a tooth print like you do at the dentist, looking for high spots of the filling. But, what we are looking for is to make sure the torque of the room temperature static assembly is within spec.
Someone mentioned that there is a matching wear pattern between ring and pinion is yes, meaning, the reason the ring and pinion come as a set is they match machine twirls like match maker, match maker, make me a match and now, ship it!
OK, so now we have thousands of the same gear meeting the other gear in so many revolutions, they dial back in. You mark a ring and pinion matching their inter mesh [tooth to tooth] is a wear pattern! So, there is a gear to ring match, as there will be the swirling-whirling wear pattern, just like the new set in a box.
Oh NO! Did the guy pull the ring carrier out, rebuild the inner gears, slash, posi clutches; forget to ink mark the gears before dis-assembly? Now he reassembles the ring to another gear of the pinion and not the one it mated with for thousands of miles? Guess what?
Ringa, ding-ding! I think that is one variable of a singing rear end about to make out with a new mate, they mismatch and sing together a new song. There is your new wear pattern ring (in the pun of parts and sounds).
Now for another variable. Say the tooth print is now too far up the ring? OK, wet your finger. Rub it around an empty wine glass and now listen to how far your foot print is way out toward the outside ring is, RINGa Ding! Ding! BINGO! I think we have a Whiner!
1.Foot print not in center after break-in = Whine while driving.
2. Pinion bearing walking up the gear is a worn bearing = Will whine and dine you eating hot dogs for awhile to pay for the rebuilding of the rear end.
3. Lift on throttle begins a whine = Foot print too far to the engine.
Those are just 3 variables. 2 are fundamental, the 3rd was experience the bearing walks up the gear like did you check how tight bearings are?
You watch the tear-down, photograph the foot print. Write down the backlash clearance, match the book against the gap now. Say none are out of adjustment. Ask where the ring to pinion marks were if this was a recent rebuild. I think you have a case or pro-rate the miles is eat the lesser of the two is parts or labor. I'm just assuming the gear was never matched before dis-assembly and there is part of your problem but not all of it.
Don't lose the evidence if you want any recourse from this! I am addressing two incidents here, remember.
Last edited by PAzYearazzUP; 03-30-2010 at 09:02 PM.
#19
Thank you all so so so much. now I understand my rear end... haha. The previous owner took it all apart and cleaned it out with new fluids and such, didnt close it back up right, some water gets into it, messing up the wear patterns and the fluids... so, maybe its time for a new driveshaft and some 3.73 action...
pazyearazzup- amazing info. Thanks a million.
Vandee- Thank you for posting this thread. Hopefully you can get your rear end fixed up like mine is soon to be...
pazyearazzup- amazing info. Thanks a million.
Vandee- Thank you for posting this thread. Hopefully you can get your rear end fixed up like mine is soon to be...