I think I've read darn near every "won't start" thread on here, but I'm still having problems.

'97 Firechicken with the 3800, automatic. A month ago it wouldn't start and had the good'ol security light flashing. Using a resistor I made the BCM happy just to buy time till I could replace the ignition lock cylinder. The next day the key was hard to turn a time or two then started feeling normal again. I figured this confirmed that the cylinder was about finished.

Fast forward to yesterday. It didn't want to start again. I gave the key a little extra 'twist' and it started right up. I guessed that my borrowed time was about out. Today I replaced the ignition lock cylinder with a new one. I didn't get a new key with the proper pellet cut today, so I retained the resistor; I'll get new keys cut later. With the new cylinder it still will not start. Here is where it gets strange: if I give the key just a little extra 'twist' it will sometimes honk the horn for a second. I am not making this up (I wish I was).

No security light other then the normal dash light test cycle when the key is first turned. The fuel pump primes (I can hear it) and everything seems normal. But when the key is turned to the start position, the starter does not turn (had it rebuilt a month ago so it should be good).

I do have the 'Check Engine' light, but I figured that is a left over from when I replaced the EGR valve two weeks ago (EGR pintle out of range error). I don't want to load it on the trailer just to haul it to O'Reillys and borrow their scan tool, but might have to.

Anybody ever hear of this? Could something be shorting out in the column to make the horn blow like that? Where is the actual ignition switch and should I replace it too? I'm guessing it is buried in the column, right??

PLEASE help. Short on funds so taking it to GM would really hurt. Short on time as it is the wife's daily driver.

 

Just put a train horn on it then and call it a day. Put it on a rail-car and you're good to go! ;-) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnPE6nGXVqE

 

could be the arm is hitting something with the horn. see if this helps. it shows were it is anyways. you will have to pull the bolts that hold the colum up so it will drop down to let you get to the switch.

 

Thanks for the tip. Actually, I intend to add the good'ol train horn to my 4x4 if that project ever takes off. Have to fix a few other things around the house first (starting with the bird).

Thanks for the diagram/scan. After I posted up here last night, I found this guy who details how to remove the ignition switch. If he isn't on this forum, he should be.

http://shbox.com/ignsw/ign_switch_repl.html

I guess I'll drop the steering column today and mess with the ignition switch. I'm hoping it is the ignition switch and not something within the steering column. Has anybody experienced a failing ignition swith that caused the key to be hard to turn one or more times, then fail??? I'm open to any suggestions.

Bill