engine removal
#1
engine removal
I recently heard that to remove the engine on a 97 camaro 3800 motor you need to take out the front subframe. Is that true? If it is do you pull the motor out from the bottom or do you pull it out from the top like normal?
thanks
thanks
#3
I have taken two out the bottom and it was alot easier than it sounds. Basically you are removing the 6 bolts holding the engine cradle to the frame, shock tower bolts, removing the drive shaft, disconnecting the ABS sensors, front brake lines and wiring harness from the engine and lifting the body up off the engine. I have not tried removing one from these cars engines out the top.
I did see a post on here from someone who had taken it out the top but I believe you have to remove the plenum in order to clear the cowl.
I did see a post on here from someone who had taken it out the top but I believe you have to remove the plenum in order to clear the cowl.
#4
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
I have never taken on out the top but it seems to me one of the steps would be remove the exhauset manifolds to get some clearance. That step alone is almost as much work as removing the motor from the bottom. I installed my manifolds, plugs and wires while the engine was on the stand. You install it from the top and you will be puting all that stuff together in the car. My back hurts thinking about it.
THis pic is right before I mounted the trans ans slid it under the body.
THis pic is right before I mounted the trans ans slid it under the body.
Last edited by Gorn; 07-03-2010 at 11:11 PM.
#5
I took the 3.4 out of my 94 via the bottom. It was not easy since you have to disconnect so much stuff but the alternative is even more unpleasant. The engine sets so low and so far back that working on it is, well, awful. At least for an old guy like me. Plus clearance at the top is more than tight. You would *have* to remove the upper intake to bring the engine out the top. That plus supporting it with a cherry picker and then remove the mount brackets.\
I think I 'm remembering correctly when I say that the GM book time for engine R&R is 15 hours. Based on my experience that is not enough time with all the disconnecting of stuff.
I think I 'm remembering correctly when I say that the GM book time for engine R&R is 15 hours. Based on my experience that is not enough time with all the disconnecting of stuff.
#6
ok. thanks guys. it seems way easier to drop it from the bottom. and 15 hrs? damn. thats mad ****ty. i didnt wanna take it to the shop so do any of you know like a "backyard" way to do it without lifts?
#7
My engine was taken out from the top with no problem. It was broken down while inside the car. Everything was unbolted and the upper and lower intakes were removed, the rest of the block was kept intact I believe. It was pretty easy to put the chain on and yank it out. It got a little caught on the cowl, but didn't do any damage to it whatsoever. So it's possible and easier than jacking it way up in the air to get it from the bottom if you're working at home with no lift. It was done in 2 days, but we were rained out the first day after a few hours of working on it. That also includes all the time to drain and collect fluids. 15 hours sounds about right for the time it took to get it out. It has yet to go back in...
#8
If you are planning on doing it and don't have a cherry picker to lift the body off the engine, I would look into renting one from a local rental place. ONce you lift it up, support it with jack stands. I jacked the rear end up before I started and set the rear tires down on a couple old wheels with tires to give me some wiggle room under the car. Don't try to take short cuts dropping the motor from the bottom if you don't have the right equipment. Getting crushed is not worth the money you would save by not having the proper lifts, jacks, etc. If you don't have the equipment or have a place to rent it, it might be better for you to do it like DarlingReject mentioned above. You will still need a lift though to raise the block out of the car. Not preachin or nothing, just getting older and wiser!
#10
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
Heck I lifted the car with my cheapy HF 1 ton cherry picker. I was a little worried about the weight but some guys on another forum said he had done several with the same cherry picker. I set jack stands on the rear axle and lift on the front frame rails right at the radiator. I noitced that jacking up the lift was easier lifting the car then it was lifting the engine/trany out of the crossmember.
The above photo shows me putting the engine back in the frame. That is the same lift I used to pick up the nose of the car so either way you will need a lift. If you are going to rent or buy one I suggest a 2 ton. The 1 ton worked but a 2 ton would give a pretty big safty factor.
The above photo shows me putting the engine back in the frame. That is the same lift I used to pick up the nose of the car so either way you will need a lift. If you are going to rent or buy one I suggest a 2 ton. The 1 ton worked but a 2 ton would give a pretty big safty factor.
Last edited by Gorn; 07-05-2010 at 08:01 PM.