Hey guys im getting codes 75 76 and 77 for the egr solenoid 1 2 and 3 failure. While looking this up on the internet i found a lot of stuff on how to get rid of the code by cleaning it... well i tried cleaning it and it returned. If i just replace the egr will they go away? thanks guys

 

and its a 94 v6 if it matters

 

I've cleaned EGR's in the passed. And they never seem to clean up well. The internals could be beyond repair. Buck up and spend the money on a new one. I know it sucks. But hey...

 

Being that all 3 solenoids are failing, you may want to look for an electrical problem. especially at the connectors at both the EGR and PCM ends. Also check for power at the EGR connector. Disconnect the EGR plug and with the ignition key on, check for 12 Volts at terminal D. Also check fuse #6 in fuse box under hood.

 

Ok well I think I'm gonna replace it, I checked the connector end and it's getting power. I left it unplugged from the egr and drove around and the car acted the exact same way as before and gave me an ses light at the same time it does before it was unplugged(it comes on when I cruise in low rpms). So we'll see what replacing it does

 

You can test the individual EGR valve solenoids using my free scan software. You would need a cable and PC also.
Scan9495-V6 OBD1 scan program for 3.4L F-car - Firebird Nation

 

Have had this issue for about 2-3 years now. Had the EGR replaced when I got the car. Tell me if this is when you notice it.

Start car from cold/warm start. Drive up to 60MPH(or higher), and as you decelerate it codes. Yup? Well friend, you've come to the world of the 3.4L V6s. They carb up so bad. I've yet to get around to it, but I've been told to take off the EGR and fish a wire hanger into the tube (with/without on a drill) to try and break up the carbon build up. Blow it out with compressed air. Reinstall.

That's all it really is, carbon build up. If you're worried about it for emissions (as I have been), either disconnect the battery before you leave it at the shop, or pull the PCM Batt (and I pull PCM Ignition as well) fuses and let it sit for about 30 secs. Clears all the codes and will pass inspection/emissions.

 

Depending on which state the OP resides, clearing the codes may not help pass the emissions test. All self-tests will be marked as "not-run" after power is removed. In most states, the inspector will connect to the car's computer and see if all the emission self-tests have been run. If any have not run, the inspection fails and the driver is told to return later.

 

Wow ha I literally just finished doing that exact thing you were explaining but I think I need to dig some more bc the light came on again and luckily it did pass emissions my past two cars haven't even been hooked up to machines when inspected

 

Here in my part of PA only 2000+ cars get scanned. Pre-2000 just need to have all the emission systems in place and no check engine light nut the rules vary even inside PA.