And if you comment, you're a "self proclaimed" smarty of course. (teasing)

Several questions. We had the power steering hose changed on the silver car today. Had some other issues discussed while at the shop and wanting your thoughts.

Silver car has a ticking sound when running. Guy at shop says its due to "low oil". He's basing this on the low oil light that was on. The previous owner said it was the sensor. Guy at shop says "oil sending unit". Would the oil be a possible cause of it? I'll tell you plan in a bit.

My car still needs the ignition switch replaced so I talked to them about that. I have the part (switch and cylinder). Guy said it was over $100 for that part and we could use it, would be about $130 labor and then we'd have to go to GM for $60 to $80 to have a key cut. How do you know if you need that entire part replaced or if just the switch would be all necessary and then not have to change key?

We had Flowmaster muffler put on silver car today and my son was happy yet disappointed because its only loud when you're on the gas. It was neat to watch them though. My son has been welding for 2 years now and begins his associates degree in august. It was the first time I've seen welding in action lol

Anyway..we're going to have diagnostic test ran tomorrow and see if they can locate which sensors are out. My son thinks its due for a tune up too.

Another question, idiot who had car before us put a belt on that bypasses the air compressor. Generally speaking, is putting the bigger belt on it all that would be needed for air to work?

 

I'm hoping you've checked the oil on the dipstick? That would tell you if the sensor is right or not. With full oil sometimes you can have ticking sounds like a sticky lifter and such.

And I don't know much about the ignition switch though.

 

1) Check oil level with the dipstick. If level is OK, then oil level sender is bad. The ticking sound is probably from a bad valve lifter. What is the oil pressure shown by the oil pressure gage?

2) Why are you replacing the ignition switch?? If you have the old key, you can buy a blank with the same value resitor from the dealer for around $30 and then have it cut by a local locksmith for about $2.

3) The muffler was designed to sound like it does, because if it was loud all the time you would want to eat a bottle of aspirin after an hour on the highway.

4) Get a drive belt for the same car with AC. However, it doesn't mean that the AC will work.

 

First of all, oil level is fine. They are replacing a sensor tomorrow along with some other stuff.

Ignition switch...replacing it because it doesn't always crank but if you wiggle around the key/switch, it will crank. Sometimes it gives you the key back but the engine is still running and my battery is dead every other day which is probably due to the fact that the car isn't technically getting cut in the "off" position each time. I do have the old key. Guy at the shop said it was around $80. I haven't done it before so I have no clue but I guess its going to need to be done.

Regarding muffler, mine is loud all the time but he looked and the cat is not on it so there's the difference. Guy at muffler shop said he could remove his if he wanted it to be noisier. I think he's grown to like it. He's even visiting his great grandmother as we speak and no one really likes to do that. He just wanted to go drive the car lol

I'm sure he will see about the belt before long to. I'm proud of how he's putting all of his graduation money into it. The diagnostic test showed the EGR valve needed to be replaced and they are doing a fuel injection service on it too. Think it was $371 tomorrow added to the $30 for the test, $150 muffler, and $110 yesterday.

Neat thing I learned though was my car has the OBD1 where his has OBD2. Shop manager tried to argue with me about mine. They are same year but guess that doesn't mean anything. I tried to get OBD2 test on mine and it had the OBD1 connector. Now we know we can take it to parts store for free code scanning.

 

If the previous owner bypassed the A/C for a slight power gain then with a new belt you should be good to go, but it could also have been bypassed because something is wrong with it.

First thing I would do is see if the A/C pulley will easily turn.

 

not where i live...

 

Hold on before grabbing an OBDII scanner. Both the 94 and 95 are OBDI. The 94 uses a OBDI PCM with a OBDI connector. The 95 is still OBDI but the connector is configured as OBDII. You will need to use your OBDI scanner with an adapter cord to fit the OBDII connector.

 

I'm not buying one so no need to worry. Although, our other cars are newer, it might wouldn't be THAT bad of idea for them.

I emailed our GM dealer about the key to see if they carry them, and if it works that way.