98 V6 Camaro won't crank
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Joined: Aug 2006
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98 V6 Camaro won't crank
Normally in AZ it means the battery is dried and toast. They don't last long in this heat. However, even after several minutes of charging from a running vehicle, it won't crank at all. You can hear the ignition click, but the starter doesn't sound like it even budges.
All the electricals work and the headlights are bright. I checked the starter fuse and it seems fine (about 85 ohms across 85-86).
Could the connection to the starter just die? Also, where is the starter on this thing? The camaro is my buddy's car, I am used to working on trans mounted FWD cars where the starter is right out in the open.
All the electricals work and the headlights are bright. I checked the starter fuse and it seems fine (about 85 ohms across 85-86).
Could the connection to the starter just die? Also, where is the starter on this thing? The camaro is my buddy's car, I am used to working on trans mounted FWD cars where the starter is right out in the open.
May 2007 ROTM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,714
From: Pgh Pa.
RE: 98 V6 Camaro won't crank
The starter is under the car on one side next to the oil pan. one side will have the oil filter the other the starter. It could be the solonoid (spelling?) see if the clicking sound is comin from the starter,if it is it's a good chance it's just a bad bat,or cable.
Tech Droid
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 9,215
From: North East PA
RE: 98 V6 Camaro won't crank
The clicking indicates the solenoid is working but the contacts could be bad, or the starter itself could be bad, or there is not enough power coming from the battery, due to a bad cable or battery. Put a voltmeter across the battery & see what the voltage is when attempting to crank. If the starter is drawing juice as it is supposed to, the voltage should drop to around 9 Volts.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
RE: 98 V6 Camaro won't crank
I have been fighting the same type of problem with my 93 Camaro. Left my 6 year old son and I stranded at sam's. A Jump would seem to help some times and some times not. Battery voltage looked good.
I Swapped starter and selinoid Saturday. Started great 4 times in a row. Lowered it down from the jack stands and it wouldn't crank. So knowing the battery was at leas 6 years old I went and bought a new one this morning. Same problem It wouldn't crank.
Then it did start later. I noticed this time that the "security" light was on in the dash. I am not sure how this light usually works. But from messing with it a few times today It appears that as long as the security light is on in the dash the car won't crank. I tried my spare key and found the same results. Apparently something in the security circutry is not reading the key properly. I read that the key is just a resistor and has to match the computer or something like that. Both my keys read 680 ohms.
I know that when I turn the key on the security light flashes 3 or 4 times and then stays off and the car will start.
Also when I turn the key on and the security light comes on and does not flash but stays on solid the car won't crank.
I guess I will take it to chevrolet and see what they say tomorrow.
Anybody able to help us with our problem?
Scottie
I Swapped starter and selinoid Saturday. Started great 4 times in a row. Lowered it down from the jack stands and it wouldn't crank. So knowing the battery was at leas 6 years old I went and bought a new one this morning. Same problem It wouldn't crank.
Then it did start later. I noticed this time that the "security" light was on in the dash. I am not sure how this light usually works. But from messing with it a few times today It appears that as long as the security light is on in the dash the car won't crank. I tried my spare key and found the same results. Apparently something in the security circutry is not reading the key properly. I read that the key is just a resistor and has to match the computer or something like that. Both my keys read 680 ohms.
I know that when I turn the key on the security light flashes 3 or 4 times and then stays off and the car will start.
Also when I turn the key on and the security light comes on and does not flash but stays on solid the car won't crank.
I guess I will take it to chevrolet and see what they say tomorrow.
Anybody able to help us with our problem?
Scottie
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
RE: 98 V6 Camaro won't crank
Duh, did a search and found what I needed.
https://camaroforums.com/m_18304/tm.htm
thanks z28pete.
Looks like I am still going to the dealer tomorrow though.
Scottie
ORIGINAL: z28pete
The ignition key has a resistor chip enbedded into it. The security module reads the resistance of the chip when the key is inserted in the ignition switch. If the resistance is according to what is programmed into the security module, it will send a data stream to the PCM indicating hat the right key is being used. Upon receiving the OK message, the PCM will allow the engine to start. Problems: bad contacts in the ignition switch preventing the resistance to be read, defective key contacts, resitor went bad, wiring problems ignition key to security module, wiring problem security module to PCM, bad security module.
The ignition key has a resistor chip enbedded into it. The security module reads the resistance of the chip when the key is inserted in the ignition switch. If the resistance is according to what is programmed into the security module, it will send a data stream to the PCM indicating hat the right key is being used. Upon receiving the OK message, the PCM will allow the engine to start. Problems: bad contacts in the ignition switch preventing the resistance to be read, defective key contacts, resitor went bad, wiring problems ignition key to security module, wiring problem security module to PCM, bad security module.
thanks z28pete.
Looks like I am still going to the dealer tomorrow though.
Scottie
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
RE: 98 V6 Camaro won't crank
Fixed for $400.00 bucks at the stealer.
Security light no longer coming on randomly.
They found a broken wire in the key lock cylinder/ignition. I also found out the cylinder is more expnsive for the manual transmission as apposed to the one for an automatic transmission. The manual has an extra button on it. I should have done it myself. I think for the price of a voltmeter and a resistor I could have fixed my car and walked away with a nice voltmeter after the job was done for a quarter of the money. If I hadn't needed the car so soon. I could have taken apart the steering wheel down to the two wires that go to the ignition. Soldered a resistor between the two wires that woluld match the resistance value measured on my key (680 ohms). Put it all back together and all would have worked just fine. I would think a novice with a hanes or chiltons could easily do this in about 5 to 6 hours. The dealer did it all in about 3 hours. If you were real good and could locate these two wires under the dash maybe you could just cut them there and install the resistor with the same results, without having to get into the column. Probably get done in 30 minutes or so.
Anybody try this before?
Security light no longer coming on randomly.
They found a broken wire in the key lock cylinder/ignition. I also found out the cylinder is more expnsive for the manual transmission as apposed to the one for an automatic transmission. The manual has an extra button on it. I should have done it myself. I think for the price of a voltmeter and a resistor I could have fixed my car and walked away with a nice voltmeter after the job was done for a quarter of the money. If I hadn't needed the car so soon. I could have taken apart the steering wheel down to the two wires that go to the ignition. Soldered a resistor between the two wires that woluld match the resistance value measured on my key (680 ohms). Put it all back together and all would have worked just fine. I would think a novice with a hanes or chiltons could easily do this in about 5 to 6 hours. The dealer did it all in about 3 hours. If you were real good and could locate these two wires under the dash maybe you could just cut them there and install the resistor with the same results, without having to get into the column. Probably get done in 30 minutes or so.
Anybody try this before?
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