yea def not anything worth doing put it that way or i wouldnt just get a lt1

 

If you're looking to stay NA, you can bolt on the aluminum heads from a 3500. Much better flowing and will push compression up to 11.5:1 on stock gaskets. If you're looking for lower compression, you'll need the pistons from a 3400 fwd motor. Also, you'll shave 40lbs switching from iron to aluminum heads.
Working with this small a motor, subtraction is as important as addition. Lose as much weight as you can

 

Doing the 3500 head swap, you will have to use the 3400 intake on the 3500 heads. the 3500 intake will not fit under the cowl. Also you'll need to tune your PCM with a stand alone program such as megasquirt. also you will have to use the 3400 pistons unless you want to detonate (not good) Hahaha

 

You can (and should) use the 3500 lower intake manifold, but yes you will need a 3400 upper IM unless you have a cowl hood. If you can get 93 octane, you'll be fine at that compression, 91 might have to pull timing. For tuning, google "gm open source obd", and more specifically, NAST1.

 

Have you proven this? From my experance back in the day with wet systems when you built a No2 type motor you had to go insane on the exhaust flow. Since the exhaust port on a 3.4 is a choke point I did not think you would get much from it. Like a turbo the No2 will fill up the cylinder but it does not help at all emptying it.

 

There is a sticky in this sub folder Start here: In that thread there is a Mod 3.4 area. Why in the world people think a redesigning a motor to combine major parts of another motor would fall under "decently cheap" is beyond me.

 

Just a high-flow cat is noticeable -- do that with a cat-back -- post a pic of your air intake -- does it truly pull cold air outside the bay? You can do headers next.

Apart from HP, look into suspension improvements -- if you care about handling, you can make your car 100X more fun to drive -- shocks and sways to start with...

 

All you need is an EPROM (Erasable Programable Read Only Memory) burner -- and the knowledge of what settings to change -- not for the faint of heart, but certainly doable...

 

I'm running a dry system, from what I've read a wet system will puddle in the 3.4 plenum and then blow up

 

What is your times? Does the 3.4 run a Maf sensor? do you put the No2 in before or after the Maf sensor. On a dry system something has to trigger more fuel I am just wondering what that is.