Back story: I've worked with my 17yr old son restoring a 94 Camaro 3.4 5-speed. Base car, only option was AC. Taught him a lot about cars and how they work. Some things he wanted was power options and t-tops. Naturally he also wanted an LS1 - which isn't going to happen anytime soon as I like having him around.

Enter Stage Right: We found a 96 RS 3.8 Auto with T-tops on CL for $500. I picked it up and brought it home.



Here's my son's car. We did floor patching, headliner, engine removal and cleaning, rear axle swap, Flowmaster exhaust, spoiler and ground effects, stereo, speakers and sub, new carpet, etc.





The current plan is to put the power doors on my sons car and also do the t-top conversion this spring.

Question: Since I have the donor car, we're going to put the 3800 Series II engine into his car. (The 96 donor sat on the ground for years and is wiped out underneath and not worth saving). Would it be worth it to swap the dash and all wiring. Can I get away with the engine swap along with the computer and harness (i know the gauges wouldn't work), or just put the 3800 long block into his car?

 

you would need to change the k member, trans, under dash harness and electronics, under hood harness, ecm, im sure gorn and massey have more info, maybe one of the fellas will respond.

 

- K-Member - aren't V6's the same, just the engine mounts need to change
- trans - we're keeping the 5-speed so this is a given
- under hood harness - (engine harness) - this is a given
- ecm - this is a given

It's actually easier keeping most of that stuff rather than trying to swap them out.

The under dash harness - really just the cluster and wiring right? Along with the ODB-II stuff.

Since we have the keys, and are swapping out the doors, I may also swap the steering column. That will resolve the PATS issue with the donor ECM.

 

from what i understand the mounts are in different locations. does the doner have traction control, that could be another issue. save/swap the lock cylinder for the rear hatch as well so it will match door key. i think exhaust is different too.

 

I'll check the RPO codes tonight. Thanks Craby.

 

I am not sure how your going to make the 5 speed work with the 3800, there is a lot different between the the 3800 and the 3.4. If you could use everything from the 3.4 it would work but the fly wheel is going to be a problem. The clutchs are differnt. The release bearing system is completely different. I am not sure if there is a mix and match parts or if your going to need to make something. I know a 3.4 t5 will not fit in a 3800 and there is no easy way to adapt it.

Motor mount loactions are different so you will need the cross member, unless you are a wizard with wiring you should use most of the wiring from the 96. I know they changed the harness for the security system. It will plug in but it will not start. There is only a few wires that need changed but figuring which ones is the problem.

Do yourself a favor, reseal the intake. Its a very common issue, easy to do with the motor out and many times when it fails it takes the motor with it. If you have the budget head gaskets would be a good idea.

 

i was thinking the 96 has a 5 sp he is using, its wrote so its kinda hard to tell.

 

Pretty much nothing form the 3800 and 3.4 are interchangeable.

 

I have never done the swap but a couple of years ago I had the chance to buy a 3.4 for scrap value, When I researched converting it to a 3800 it seems the exact same process as converting it to a LT1. (you have to swap everything) He is going to need to switch it over to the OBD2 complete computer system but that is a system for an automatic. It is not going to be happy about not seeing the shift controls. I would say he could get it reprogrammed but the 96 has an issue and the first step in tuning a 96 should be buying a 97 PCM because there are issues with the 96 PCM. He will need the t5 setup out of a 96 from the petal to drive shaft or some how make an adapter so the 3.4 clutch will work with a 3800 fly wheel without the transmission be any farther from the motor.

Swapping in the automatic trans and making the whole thing 96 tech would be the way to go cost and labor wise. Either way it seem like a lot of work to build a car you could buy running condition for $1500.

 

Aside from the apparent body rust in the back, what else is wrong with the 96? Since you did some floor patching on the 94, that car must not have been in cream puff condition either. If you're able to use the 96 running gear for the 94, then it should be able to be made a roadworthy car. I know there must be an attachment to the 94, but getting the 96 fixed up using some of the nice stuff from the 94 might be an easier transition.