I have a 95 z28 with an automatic transmission. it will not shift into 3rd, I changed the filter and fluid because I thought it might be clogged therefore keeping it from building pressure to shift to third however that didn't help so my next step is to change the valve body right? I have a friend that has the valve body from a 700R4 tranny and I was wondering if it would work in my 4L60E?

 

i wouldnt waste the time doing that, id swap in a different tranny if you can find one, otherwise get it rebuilt

do you hear any grinding at all, what is it like when it gets to the end of second and tries to shift ?

 

there is no grinding or anything first and second work fine, no slipping or anything, it goes from first to second then it just doesn't shift it just revs up and when I let off the gas it acts like it kick outta gear and when I try to accelerate again I have to build up the rpms (how much depends how fast I'm goin) then it kicks in, kinda feels like a kick-down... I have a friend that had a similar problem and he had a tranny shop look at it and they said the tranny was fine just needed the valve body.. I'm kinda hopin that's what it is in mine because I can't affordto get a new tranny and my friend will give me the valve body from his 700r4 for free.

 

yeah that should work then, the 700r4 is almost identical to the 4l60e, except of course the the 700r4 isnt electrical

 

I knew the 700r wasn't electric that's really the only reason I had the question because I wasn't sure if the valve body was affected when it changed over to the electric version.... Thanks for replying

 

The valve body from the 700R4 won't work in the 4L60E. The 4L60E has a different, electronic shift controlled valve body, the 700R4 doesn't.
Yours sounds more like it could be an internal clutch pack slippage problem.

 

I was afraid of that.. is it hard to change the clutch pack?.. I'm tryin to not spend money as much as possible so anything I can do myself I will ya know what I mean.

and by the way... sweet ride!

 

OK, I went back and re-read your second response. You aren't getting any slippage in third or fourth at all, but it just won't go in, is that right? Then I don't see that it would be the clutches. It could be the valve body itself, or an electrical problem with it, or a different electrical or trans component problem. There are too many possibilities to try and pinpoint it here. Your best bet would be to take it in where someone can diagnose it properly, check the line pressures, etc. It would be too much guess work otherwise, and I'm sure you don't want to start blindly throwing parts, and time into it. Do you know anyone who would diagnose it for you for a small fee, but then you can do the work?

 

That's right its like a manual if you don't shift it just keeps revin till it redlines, it never feels like its tryin to change. but when I let off the gas its like pushing the clutch in it just coasts then you have to build the rpm's back up for it to go back into gear... the guy that I bought itfrom put a bbk shift improver kit in it and I have a feeling that's where the problem came from, plus he said that the guy he got it from put the hypertech on the car and there is a possibility that the trans was "tweaked" with the hypertech before the bbk was ever installed and I know that could cause problems too... my biggest problem is that I dont know what the two previous owners did to it... and I do think I know of a guy that will check it for me as far as a "small" fee i'm not sure there lol... but I appreciate your help with my problem.

 

I assume you must be referring to the "Power Programmer" when you're talking about the Hypertech? I used to have one when I had a 96, and played with the shift settings. It alters your computer, which in turn electronically alters the transmissions fluid pressures. The one problem you have, if trying to reverse that, is that you need the very Power Programmer that the previous owner used on your car to change your computer back to stock yourself. And if your computer has been changed in any way with a Power Programmer, trying to hook up a different programmer isn't going to work, it won't be recognized. If you didn't get the programmer with the car, your best bet would be to have your computer reset to factory specs and see what happens. A shift improver kit mechanically alters fluid pressure through the valve body, and if the computer was "tweaked" as well, it could be doing more harm than good.